What happens when the beer becomes too oxidized when transferring to a secondary? Thanks in advance for any answers.
Oxidation of beer typically takes time to manifest itself. The typical flavor descriptor is a cardboard type flavor. Other flavors which can develop are sherry type flavors, honey type flavors, etc. For a typical ale where you are not doing something 'special' (e.g., aging on oak, adding fruit, etc.) there is absolutely no need to conduct a secondary. By not conducting a transfer to a secondary you mitigate oxidation and the potential for infection. A strategy that you can use if you conducted a transfer to a secondary and think the beer was exposed to too much air (oxygen) is to drink that batch quickly before the flavor aspects of oxidation become evident. Cheers!
Another tip if you think your beer has been exposed to excess air (oxygen) is to store the beer cold (once bottle conditioning is complete; assuming you bottle). Cold temperatures will slow down oxidation processes. Cheers!
To define Jack's 'quickly' a bit for you, if you brewed 5 gallons and bottles two cases, if you drink then in a month or so, you should be okay, although the cardboard may start showing up at the end. But it's not a situation where you have to chug those beers or lose them.
I didn't want to comment upon a timeframe since there are sooooo many variables: How much air/oxygen was introduced? More O2 equates to quicker oxidation effects. What type of beer is it? I would suspect that the cardboard flavors would be more evident in lighter tasting beers. What is the individual beer drinkers flavor threshold for Trans-2-nonenal (3-Hexyl-2-propenal)? This is the compound that tastes like cardboard. etc. A timeframe like a month or so might be appropriate but given the above variables I really don't know. Cheers!
It also depends on the beer. An IPA or APA, i.e. something hop focused can seem, for lack of a better word, "flat". You frequently see posts asking why a beer isn't hoppy when someone used a ton of hops. A number of people here have started doing closed transfers from fermenter to keg to minimize O2. In some beers, a little oxidation can be ok or even good, as long as it is not too much. So, something like an old ale or a RIS often tastes "smoother" (again lack of a better word) with some age or oxidation. In general, less oxidation is better which implies don't do a secondary for most beers.
No clue. American Amber Ale No clue again. Guess we will find out? lol I definitely will not be doing a secondary from now on when I am doing these simple kits. My biggest problem was doing too much research instead of just brewing and learning from mistakes. Appreciate all the info!
Yes, as a committed cask ale drinker I don't have the horror of oxidation shared by most BAs. But it's controlled and limited oxidation which lifts the beer from the level achieved by the brewer to the dizzier heights of a pint in the pub. Like all good things it comes to an end, via cardboard and then green apples before making hoppy vinegar. The points made about the time scale are wholly valid. I've been round big regional brewers who fermented in open tanks and followed by what homebrewers regard as sloppy and risky practices. Yet year in year out they made delightful beers which I still remember fondly.Gorgeous stuff a lot of it.But the time scale was very short , a week or so to brew and cask the beer, a couple of weeks at the pub before tapping and the casks would be back at the brewery within three or four weeks of being sent out.
