Pale Ale Critique. yes, another critique

why the carapils? Is that unfermentable?

 

Do you know why you are adding gypsum and how much? i.e. do you know your water profile without it? Also, pH 5.2 stabilizer is ineffective.

 

What are you aiming for? The grain bill seems a little odd to me. Also, what VikeMan said.

 

If by purified you mean distilled or RO, then you'll definitely want to add some calcium (as Gypsum and/or as Calcium Chloride), both to bring the pH into range and to aid yeast flocculation. But I'd recommend using a spreadsheet water calculator to plan that. Don't fly blind.

 

Forget the Pils and use all Marris Otter, you'll thank me later.

 

Agree on this, Marris Otter will be better. Also I would read up more on water/pH before you start adding chemicals or have your water tested to see what, if any, chemicals are needed. Without getting into the nerdy "Chemistry" of Gypsum brewers main use of it is to increase the presence of hops (smell and taste), but there is WAYYYYYY more reason on why brewers use it. I will leave that up to you to read/research. FYI the book Water: A Comprehensive Guide for Brewers is a great read and start.

 

Sometimes there's nothing wrong with mixing up the base malts. My Blonde Ale has 5 (technically) base malts and no (technically) specialty grains. I bet nobody could ever guess what those 5 malts are just by tasting, but the combined result is very nice.

 

There are many ways to get "clear" beer, but certain yeast and grains will always produce a cloudy or chill haze beer. I usually just always make sure I have happy healthy yeast, from a starter, and sometimes I will cold crash. I also use whirfloc or Irish Moss 15/10 minutes left in the boil. I usually always get clear beers (unless I use a lot of wheat or hefe yeast strain)

 

I like that schedule, if you keg I would perform your dry hop schedule on CO2 around 60F and then cold crash to 30F and serve. I have found that the hop aromas and punch are more present when I dry hop on CO2 and the aroma lasts longer.

 

Not sure what your space looks like, but once you get brewing a lot, a kegerator and accessories wind up taking up a lot less space than cases of bottles.

 

.
If not fining after the boil, I think if I were still bottling regularly and expecting to drink my beer in only about a month, I'd be using a highly flocculant yeast like WY 1968/WLP 002. I like the recipe.

edit: what's the rush?

 

Looks sound to me, if not a bit odd for the malt bill.

I'd just do some pils and maybe a character malt, like crystal even. It's a APA, so I can see a bit of body and sweetness in there.