Perlick Faucet Install

Discussion in 'Home Bar' started by ravensjeff, Feb 9, 2014.

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  1. ravensjeff

    ravensjeff Initiate (0) Sep 27, 2013 Maryland

    Just finished ordering a new Perlick 525SS to replace a standard faucet and wanted to know if there is anything special I need to know to do it right the first time. I'll also be replacing the beer line for the 1st time, starting with a 10' section.
     
  2. DougC123

    DougC123 Savant (1,186) Aug 21, 2012 Connecticut

    It depends...I've heard of and experienced problems with US made components mating properly with lower quality components on some imported kegerators. I had trouble the first few times getting my Perlicks to screw onto the shanks of my kegerator (Haier). It took some bullying to get the tooth pattern to mate up cleanly, luckily it wasn't so far off that along with some wiggling the collar was able to pull them in. It got easier each time over the next few cleanings, and after that hasn't been an issue.
     
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  3. csurowiec

    csurowiec Initiate (0) Mar 7, 2010 Maryland

    I just upgraded to a Perlick faucet from the one that came with a kit from Beverage Factory. I had no issues whatsoever with it mating up to the shank that comes thru the fridge door. Also replaced the line because I couldn't get it super clean anymore. Got the beer line from my local homebrew store and upgraded the cheap plastic hose clamps with good stainless ones from the hardware store.
     
  4. mikehartigan

    mikehartigan Maven (1,421) Apr 9, 2007 Illinois

    It's no different than installing a standard faucet. If the splines on the kegerator are of poor quality or mismatched, it won't be any more or less difficult to install a Perlick than any other high-quality faucet.
     
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  5. ravensjeff

    ravensjeff Initiate (0) Sep 27, 2013 Maryland

    I have a BevAir BM-23, so hopefully won't have any issues.
     
  6. DougC123

    DougC123 Savant (1,186) Aug 21, 2012 Connecticut

    You won't.
     
  7. PDXhophead

    PDXhophead Initiate (0) Mar 1, 2014 Oregon

    I just installed the same faucet on my Bev Air BM-23 without any issues.
     
  8. ravensjeff

    ravensjeff Initiate (0) Sep 27, 2013 Maryland

    Just finished replacing beer line and installing the Perlick 525 faucet. Previous beer line was 5 ft. I put on 10 feet to start based on advice from Doug. Seemed like I needed the extra footage so I could get co2 pressure control around the range I needed for Sam Adams beer. I could never really get it above 10.5 psi if I wanted decent pours. It was at 10 psi with the 5 ft line and got very good pours. At a steady 38 degrees, I need almost 12 psi according to the chart for 2.55 vols CO2.

    Hopefully my keg comes in tomorrow; getting some Sam Adams Irish Red.

    The only thing I question is the somewhat looseness with the tap handle at the closed position. Should it be like this for it to seal closed properly? Any watch outs here (too tight or too loose)?? I see how it seals forward toward the spout. Just not sure how tight/loose it needs to be.

    I was also wondering if anyone uses faucet plugs to help ensure no leaks sprout up and make a mess. I tend to have cold beers everyday; so not sure it is a good (or bad) idea. The room that the kegerator is in is fairly secure (so cats can't open tap handle by mistake). But I would hate to have a mess happen- I would even get in trouble for that!! New room is sweeeeet.
     
  9. DougC123

    DougC123 Savant (1,186) Aug 21, 2012 Connecticut

    It shouldn't be loose, you need to tighten the bonnet which is the grooved ring where the handle meets the body of the faucet. Don't go crazy with it, too tight isn't good either. I'm sure you will be happy with the 525 and the longer line. Perfect pours await.
     
  10. mikehartigan

    mikehartigan Maven (1,421) Apr 9, 2007 Illinois

    I assume you're referring to the soft plastic faucet plugs that are generally available for about a quarter each. They don't seal anything and won't hold any pressure (a leaky faucet is under pressure from the keg). They're designed simply to keep the fruit flies away. When I leave the house for an extended period - a week or more - I use plugs with a bit of vodka in them.
     
  11. ravensjeff

    ravensjeff Initiate (0) Sep 27, 2013 Maryland

    Looks like Irish Red doesn't come in 1/2 kegs. Dam. Summer Ale now coming on Thursday.
     
  12. ravensjeff

    ravensjeff Initiate (0) Sep 27, 2013 Maryland

    Doug- just checked this morning; the bonnet feels like it is properly tightened already. I am getting some minor loose movement going side-to-side by moving the tap handle as it sits in the closed position.
     
  13. DougC123

    DougC123 Savant (1,186) Aug 21, 2012 Connecticut

    I'd say wait until you get the keg in and the pressure applied and see how it goes. If it is too loose, there will be leaking and you will need to tighten it a bit. The danger is over tightening, so doing nothing right now is a good plan until you are sure what you have.
     
  14. mikehartigan

    mikehartigan Maven (1,421) Apr 9, 2007 Illinois

    All the o-rings, gaskets, and seals are positioned properly?
     
  15. ravensjeff

    ravensjeff Initiate (0) Sep 27, 2013 Maryland

    I didn't take the faucet apart, so I was counting on it being built right as shipped.
     
  16. ravensjeff

    ravensjeff Initiate (0) Sep 27, 2013 Maryland

    I don't see anything that could actually be tightened. I checked the bonnet, which seemed fine. I'm assuming that the bonnet your talking about is the locking collar that tightens to the top of the faucet, and that it doesn't move as you move the tap handle back n forth.

    The looseness (not much, but still enough play to question) is above the bonnet, with the piece that the tap handle screws in to. Hopefully it is just a pressure thing; there is no beer in the line/faucet since everything was replaced. I'm guessing it needs pressure in order to seal to the front floating o-ring. I just never rembered seeing this kind of play with the other standard faucet when changing out kegs.
     
  17. DougC123

    DougC123 Savant (1,186) Aug 21, 2012 Connecticut

    #17 DougC123, Apr 2, 2014
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2014
  18. zero_signal

    zero_signal Initiate (0) Aug 8, 2013 New Jersey

    You do have part #6 in there right?
     
  19. ravensjeff

    ravensjeff Initiate (0) Sep 27, 2013 Maryland

    Item 7 was what I thought you were taking about as being the bonnet. It felt properly tightened. The part that has the minor play in it is the handle jacket/handle leaver. The handle leaver description is saying that it is a new design that requires #6 to work. Is it possible that I have the old design faucet and need to get the #5 & 6 upgraded parts? I knew that Perlick was working on fixing some issues with these particular faucets. I was reading an extensive thread about this on another beer forum and alot of people had no issues with the old faucet design, while others did. I don't want to take it apart yet until I try it out first. I wonder if the Beverage Factory sells those parts too (I got the Perlick faucet from them)
     
  20. DougC123

    DougC123 Savant (1,186) Aug 21, 2012 Connecticut

    The bonnet is what snugs down the lever assembly. The old style is fine, no need to replace parts. You're over thinking it. The aversion to taking it apart is also bigger than it has to be. It pops apart in about two seconds, and worth a look to avoid having to look when the beer is hooked up. Unscrew the bonnet, lift the plastic cup out and pull the lever up and out.
     
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