American Ales Pseudo Zombie - APA - All Grain

Discussion in 'Homebrew Recipes' started by Soneast, Oct 5, 2014.

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  1. Soneast

    Soneast Champion (826) May 9, 2008 Wisconsin

    Pseudo Zombie
    American Pale Ale
    All Grain
    6.2% ABV
    5.8 SRM
    46.2 IBUS

    73% Efficiency
    Boil time: 90 mins

    7 lbs Pale Malt 2 Row
    2 lbs Marris Otter
    2 lbs Pilsner
    8 oz Carapils
    8 oz Crystal 40
    8 oz Table Sugar

    1 oz. Glacier (5.6%) 70 mins
    2 oz. Citra (12%) 10 mins
    2 oz. Citra (12%) whirlpool
    2 oz Citra (12%) Dry Hop, 5 days
    2 oz Citra (12%) Dry Hop, 5 days

    2 liter, decanted starter of Conan yeast (I harvested from Heady Topper, though Yeast Bay Vermont Ale yeast or Gigayeast Vermont IPA yeast would suffice)

    Water profile used (ppm): Ca: 80, Mg: 20, Na: 4, Cl: 39 SO4: 77. Chloride/Sulfate Ratio: .51. I also add 4 ml of Lactic Acid to the mash to keep the pH right around 5.45.

    My take on a Zombie Dust/Pseudo Sue type of APA, or "session IPA" as some would say. I haven't entered it in any comps yet, but some were included as extras in beer trades and these were some responses I received back from trading partners:

    "btw, the home brew was fantastic!! It had a great smell with the light citrusy/tropical flavors that i love! thanks for sharing!!"

    "Having the home brew right now, really fucking good...Actually pretty amazing, if it was in the store I'd buy the crap out of it."

    "I'm sure you've heard the saying "dont quit your day job", I think if that APA could be brewed consistently, you might actually want to think about it man!"

    "Had that APA yesterday and I must admit I cannot think of a better tasting and balanced APA I have had prior (that includes Zombie Dust & Psuedo Sue), it is a very drinkable ale. Thanks for adding that one. I can see how that one would not gather any dust it was awesome."

    I wanted to combined the intense Citra character and easy drinkability of ZD/PS, with the hop creamy-like mouthfeel of heady topper.

    For the whirpool addition, or hop stand, I allow the wort to cool to 170°F, then I add my hops and whirlpool for 45 minutes. For the dry hop additions, I do it in two stages. The first I do in primary after fermentation is around 90% done. The second, I rack the beer to a keg, purged with c02, then I dry hop in that keg, which serves as a brite tank. After five days I push the beer to the serving keg via c02. This oxygen free environment for hopping/serving I found to be key to get the most from the hop aroma and flavor. I'm pretty sure you would not be able to get half the aroma from this recipe if you were to bottle it.

    I'm not a big fan of Citra as a bittering hop, so I use Glacier which I love to bitter with in most of my hoppy beers. I just love that super clean bitterness from that hop, which in addition to all the high alpha hops additions at the end of the boil still give me a pretty stiff bitterness in the final product. But not TOO harsh, which IMO is key to a sessionable hoppy beer. Well that and a dry finish that leaves the palate quickly.

    Unlike most beers I brew, I actually shoot for 6 gallons final volume. This allows me to accommodate the extra hop material and still fill my keg to the full 5 gallons, without getting a ton of hop material in the final serving keg. The sugar I add on day 2 of active fermentation.
  2. mypenguin

    mypenguin Initiate (0) Jul 21, 2009 Minnesota

    Can you explain how you transfer from one keg the other? Just have a liquid line going from one liquid post into the other liquid post?
  3. Generous_Beer_Lover

    Generous_Beer_Lover Initiate (0) Oct 30, 2014 North Carolina

    Your technique looks to be the key. Doing something very similar tomorrow with a pale but will probably whirlpool at a little lower of a temp. (160F or less). Love using pilsner in the grainbill. Looks like a super solid IPA.
  4. Soneast

    Soneast Champion (826) May 9, 2008 Wisconsin

    Pretty much. I cold crash the dry hop keg overnight, or longer depending on my schedule, then hook up a 3' length of tube to the two liquid outposts and use 2-3lbs to transfer, releasing gas with the purge valve. I should also mention that I cut about an inch off the dip tube of my dry hop keg, to leave most of the hop sludge behind.
  5. Soneast

    Soneast Champion (826) May 9, 2008 Wisconsin

    I just received a 1st place at the House of Brews Pro Am Challenge for American Pale Ale and 3rd place Best of Show with this beer. I did take out the Crystal malt for subsequent batches. Seemed kind of pointless to have it in there, I think I get enough malt complexity just by combining the three base malts.
  6. Astanto5

    Astanto5 Initiate (0) Dec 23, 2014 Florida

    First of all, Congrats!
    Do you mind expanding on why you stack all these base malts? I've found I like the biscuit type flavors MO brings, but 2 row and pilsner seem highly interchangeable. Does the pilsner bring any dryness to it?
  7. Soneast

    Soneast Champion (826) May 9, 2008 Wisconsin

    Well for one I like the malt complexity I get which allows me to use little to no caramel/crystal malt, and like you I've always liked the flavor of MO in my pale ales. And yes I do find that I get an extra 2 or 3 pts off the FG when I add the pilsner malt to the grist. But mostly it was from the advice of Mike "Tasty" McDole that I decided to start combing base malts in almost all of my beers, in particular a touch of pilsner malt. I personally have enjoyed the results.
  8. GetMeAnIPA

    GetMeAnIPA Defender (649) Mar 28, 2009 California

    When do you add the sugar? Going to try this recipe or a similar version next weekend.
  9. Soneast

    Soneast Champion (826) May 9, 2008 Wisconsin

    In the primary. Usually on day 2 of active fermentation. I boil it in a cup of water and add it after cooled.
    GetMeAnIPA likes this.
  10. CurtFromHershey

    CurtFromHershey Initiate (0) Oct 4, 2012 Minnesota

    Any specific reason you don't add the sugar to the main boil? I can't imagine conan would have any issues chewing through the malt and sugar in a moderate gravity ale
  11. Soneast

    Soneast Champion (826) May 9, 2008 Wisconsin

    I dunno, I've always had better attenuation, even if just by a point or two, if I add the sugar later in the fermentation. And that goes for any beer that requires sugar additions, not just this one.
  12. nottherealEBW

    nottherealEBW Initiate (0) Aug 13, 2015 Indiana

    I really like how you are dry hopping using kegs and my next IPA I'm going to use this method.
    The use of Glacier for bitter is interesting, maybe I need to just try it, but I've always been a fan of FWH with Warrior.
    Anyways really interesting technique and I'm excited to try it out.
  13. Soneast

    Soneast Champion (826) May 9, 2008 Wisconsin

    Yea warrior is a great alternative, one that I have used in the past, nothing is as clean in bitterness as glacier, IMO. Sure you have to use a lot more but on the homebrew level that is not as big of a concern and I make up for the extra hop matter on the backend.
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