I recently started home brewing and bought a 2 tap kegerator that came with a CO2 regulator. The attached image shows the CO2 tank on the right and the inlet connector (E) attached. My setup within the kegerator is actually the opposite where CO2 tank is on the left and inlet connector attaches to the right. All is fine with my current scenario. Because there may be times where i need to control different PSI for each keg, I am looking to purchasing a dual CO2 regulator. Looking at all the various dual regulators, they all have the setup similar to the above image where the inlet connector attaches from the left. So my question is: If i were to purchase a dual regulator like the following example Is there any harm in swapping the inlet port with the high pressure regulator (ie. where inlet is on left side and high pressure gauge is on right, but will be upside down readings)? Or is the regulator built to only flow one way and the swap isn't possible? My concern is that if the two ports are not swappable, then I'd either have to: a) install it upside down (learn how to read all the dials upside down) b) install it backwards (front to back) without being able to see any dial info c) figure out a way to mount CO2 tank on the right end of the kegerator so that it can work with this leftward configuration. Thanks and any input is appreciated.
A quick search for... Kegco RH-542-DP ...yields nothing I can find. I can find... Kegco LH-542-DP ...all day long. Knee-jerk reaction is yes, unless a check valve is in play. Interesting. Lemme do some research once I am back on a full blown computer for this and get back to ya. I recall a thread on here about this...maybe someone else will roll through in the meantime that knows for sure.
Here's the post I was thinking about...but it's not quite what we're looking for here. I think the check valves on this post was about the low-pressure outlet to keg side of the regulator. So, I found this... https://www.beveragefactory.com/dra...two-product-co2-regulator-battery.html#tab-qa ...and the staff answer at that site is that you could do that with the model on that page. My thought experiment here...I think this is an easy definitive test. With it all hooked up and set up on two kegs and on the gas 1. shut the valve off on the main CO2 tank 2. does the other side's overall tank pressure drop to zero on the high pressure tank regulator? If that test passes, you probably can reverse the stem and high-pressure gauge, because there is gas flowing universally on the high-pressure side. Come to think of it, I can't imagine home bar equipment having a high-pressure isolation/check valve between regulators, but stranger things have happened, as they say. Experts, feel free to correct me if I am wrong here or barking up the wrong tree. Cheers!
I know it’s been discussed before, and I don’t believe there was a solution. Kind of ironic that most kegerators have the CO2 on the left side and you can’t run the gauges off the right side of the tank against the back wall. Mine run off the left of the tank along the sidewall because that was better than facing the back.
@Scrapss, although the Q&A on that Kegco dual regulator does say so, "This is something that is possible but it is not a breeze....This is a left hand thread so it is a lot easier to keep as is" makes me feel a little about doing such a task . Also, thanks for the experimental option/advice, but as a 1) newbie 2) a pressurized gas container 3) Not knowing the engineering behind the regulator The math (1 + 2 + 3) just doesn't add up real well so I'll pass on testing this experiment . Last i want is to wake up my neighbors within a 1 mile radius with my potential kaboom! experiment. Didn't think about option d, but I'll have to go with what @DougC123 has done, by turning the CO2 bottle so that the regulator runs off the left sidewall of the kegerator.
You'll realize there are far more exciting things to address. I was annoyed by this when I first came across it, but it quickly goes away as there is beer to be had.
I am not familiar with this brand of reg, but yes, you can do as proposed. The horizontal fittings (inlet, nipple, hi-gauge) are all a common manifold. The pressure in the hi-gauge is the same as the outlet of tank (duh!) as is the same pressure being fed to each primary regulator. Once the primary is set, it's outlet pressure is the same in the vertical fittings (lo-gauge, shutoff valve). So yes, all is modular and reversible. Many regs have left hand fittings for the high pressure side (to avoid "popping" a lo-gauge) . . . most clearly mark this (at least on the hi-gauge). I am positive you can call the mfg/distributor and they will confirm if left or right. There is no need for check valves in the high manifold. With about 2 ounces of common sense there is no danger in moving fittings around. A possibility of creating a leak is your worst consequence. You didn't ask, but consider adding a wye if you don't need dual pressures: This can easily replace a single shut off valve and can run two kegs (same pressure). Cost of wye is <10 bucks, plus each shut off valve is less than 10 bucks (can use the existing valve). Time to install is less than 5 minutes. Even if you're upgrading to the two primary regulators for two difference pressures (pic 2) consider adding a wye or two . . . never know when you might need an extra gas line. Plus you can mix/match the valves, some of mine have black/red levers mixed together, not as purty but the beer never complains. All of these components are modular, they take a 1/4" npt fitting (gauges, nipple, inlet, wye, shuttoff valve), just respect hi versus lo side for gauges. If you wanted to you could mount the shutoff valve on top and lo-gauge on bottom (would look foolish but possible). A left hand thread takes no more effort than a right hand thread to assemble, your channel locks will never know the difference. Finally, if you really need two different outlet pressures you don't need to buy another complete rig. You can buy the "primary" section only (with lo-gauge/shut off valve) and add it to the existing reg you have. Remember, everything is modular here and the end result is what is shown in your pic 2. Just add a nipple (double female, that's what connects the two primaries in pic 2) and you're set. If it's right hand thread you can buy a brass 1/4" nipple at HD (probably not a left). You could daisy chain an unlimited number of primary regs. Any distributor who won't help you with parts/advice is not worth dealing with.
Well, without knowing what type of box it is, and not knowing where it is located, I’ll give you my initial reaction. First, I’d read the keg box manual to see if I can run the CO2 externally. If so... I’d order an attached pair of secondary regulators and about 50’ of CO2 line. When they arrive, here is the process: 1. Locate a place to house the CO2 tank and run the CO2 line into the keg box with the tank turned off 2. Mount the secondary regulators on the wall inside the box in a place of your choosing and attach the incoming CO2 line from the tank 3. Plumb the secondary regs to your couplers (do not engage keg yet) 4. Open the valve on the CO2 tank and set the primary regulator to 20PSI. Then set your secondary regulators to your specs and engage kegs You’ve now gained additional room in the box and achieved dual pressure control. A few final thoughts: Most multi-tap keg box owners usually find out down the road that different pressures for two lines are not usually necessary. You are in the unique position of being a homebrewer, and as such, you have the ability to control your carbonation rate. If you brew certain Belgian and/or German styles, dual control might be necessary. If you don’t, it might not be needed but still looks like a cool accessory.
