Questions on a small batch brew: Evaporation and target ABV

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by CO-Bloom, Nov 1, 2016.

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  1. CO-Bloom

    CO-Bloom Pundit (879) May 3, 2014 Colorado

    So tonight my wife and I started brewing again after almost 2 years. I think there was such a big gap because my first 2 beers were just terrible - both drain pours (well one was tolerable, but that's not a descriptor I like to use for beer). So we brewed a 1 gallon extract brew by Northern Brewer. It's a Zombie Dust copy called "Zombie Dirt."

    Here is my issue - I ended up with only about 3/5 of a gallon. I have a couple of ideas. but I would love some input.

    First, the obvious culprit was that there was tons of hop sediment in this recipe and it was clogging up my auto siphon. But that didn't seem to leave 2/5 of a gallon.

    Second, I live at about 8,000 feet in a very dry climate. I think I had a really high evaporation rate which I think left me with considerably less beer. Anyone have experience with this?

    Is it going to come out significantly boozier? I will note I left a small amount malt extract behind because it just wouldn't come out of the stupid jug. I thought about topping it off with some boiled water but I have already pitched the yeast and it's sitting in my fermentation fridge.

    So here are my main questions. Do you think it will cause problems? what would you suggest for future brews to remedy with both the hop sludge and the evaporation loss?

    Thanks!
     
    #1 CO-Bloom, Nov 1, 2016
  2. dmtaylor

    dmtaylor Savant (1,149) Dec 30, 2003 Wisconsin

    Evaporation loss is very high with small batches. Start with enough water (distilled is best) so that you can ferment the volume that you intended. Otherwise, yes, this will be a very high strength beer. But it is also not too late to add distilled water right now.
     
    #2 dmtaylor, Nov 1, 2016
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  3. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    You need to dial-in your hop absorption (in volume of wort lost per unit weight of hops) and your evaporation rate in gallons per hour of boiling. Once you dial-in these and a few other parameters and take them into account when planning your total water input, you'll hit your intended volumes.

    For your evaporation rate, you can boil some water for some amount of time, then measure and compute it. (Just make sure you're using whatever equipment you'll be using to brew, and a reasonably similar starting volume of water.)

    For hop absorption, you can "back into" that parameter after measuring your evaporation rate, i.e. solve for it.

    Software helps.
     
    #3 VikeMan, Nov 1, 2016
  4. CO-Bloom

    CO-Bloom Pundit (879) May 3, 2014 Colorado


    Should I boil the water first? Also didn't see this until now and it's now fermenting. Does it matter that it started fermentation? Sorry, still new to this.
     
    #4 CO-Bloom, Nov 1, 2016
  5. CO-Bloom

    CO-Bloom Pundit (879) May 3, 2014 Colorado

    Great tips, thank you!
     
    #5 CO-Bloom, Nov 1, 2016
  6. dmtaylor

    dmtaylor Savant (1,149) Dec 30, 2003 Wisconsin

    Yes, it's a good idea to boil and cool the water. You can still add it to the fermenter, no problem at all with doing that.
     
    #6 dmtaylor, Nov 1, 2016
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  7. crcostel

    crcostel Initiate (0) Feb 26, 2006 Illinois

    Boil off on a 1 gallon can be significant. On my first try - a NB 1 gallon extract kit - I lost about that much volume. I've since learned to factor that in on my pre-boil measurement.
     
    #7 crcostel, Nov 1, 2016
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  8. CO-Bloom

    CO-Bloom Pundit (879) May 3, 2014 Colorado

    Thanks for the responses, this is such a helpful community! I added another 20oz of boiled bottled spring water (didn't have distilled). I didn't top it off to the gallon mark since I did leave a bit of wort behind that wasn't due to evaporation - I just couldn't get the last 24oz or so since the hop sediment was clogging my siphon so bad - so I will need a good way to filter at least some sediment since I will likely make 70% hoppy beers. I hope this helps be hit my target gravity and it isn't too malty/boozy - I want that Citra to shine!!
     
    #8 CO-Bloom, Nov 1, 2016
  9. PapaGoose03

    PapaGoose03 Grand High Pooh-Bah (6,057) May 30, 2005 Michigan
    BA4LYFE Society Pooh-Bah

    If you don't use a hop bag, then you'll have to hold the intake of your siphon above the trub and leave some beer behind. If you are fermenting in a carboy, the center of the bottom is usually raised higher than the perimeter, so hold the siphon there. If you are using a bucket, tip it and place your siphon above that area. If the trub flows down to the lowest point, then just raise the siphon a little bit. Watch what is flowing through the siphon and adjust the height accordingly. You'll get the hang of it.
     
    #9 PapaGoose03, Nov 1, 2016
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  10. CO-Bloom

    CO-Bloom Pundit (879) May 3, 2014 Colorado

    Have you found that you lose any/much aroma and flavor when using a hop bag? If it is negligible or just a slight reduction (that I can make up for with a bit more hops) than that may be the route I go with hopping and dry hopping. Thanks for your input!
     
    #10 CO-Bloom, Nov 2, 2016
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