racking via co2

. . . you can add "mohel" to your resume . . .

For @jlordi12 : I don't use CO2, but do connect the outflow of the racking tube to the liquid "out post" on the keg (fill the keg through the diptube). This minimizes splashing and nothing on the outside of the tubing ever touches the precious beer. I don't panic if a smidgen of trub finds its way over . . . it will settle and be poured off.

 

For the last beer that I transferred I used CO2 to start my siphon, rather than use an auto-siphon, and then turned it off. Occasionally I would turn the CO2 back on, just to fill up the head space of my fermenter w/ something other than oxygen. I used a really low pressure. It seemed to work pretty well.

 

Along those lines, I typically shoot for 5.625 gallons of wort into the fermenter and fill the keg. Basically, I brew 11.25 gallon batches and split them into 2x 6.5 gallon carboys which go on to fill 2x corney kegs.

 

I think dedicating a keg as a Brite tank is worth the investment and extra time. You can also dry hop in this vessel as well. Brite keg has clipped dip tube. Either 1.5" (non-dry hop beer) or 2.5" (dry hop beers) cut dip tube.

My recommendation is to auto siphon from primary to CO2 purged brite keg by gravity. If dry hopping, rack on top of hops. Close off keg and purge with CO2 again, through the dip tube so it CO2 flushes the beer and not just the head space. Do dry hop routine in this brite keg, even shaking occasionally to rouse the hops in suspension. If multiple dry hop additions, just purge after additions. Before transfer to serving keg, cold crash a few days at 34 F and then rack via CO2 from brite keg to CO2 purged serving keg under 5 psi, drawing from dip tube of brite keg and into dip tube of serving keg. During transfer, keep pressure relief valve open.

 

I kind of do this. I don't shorten the tubes and use exclusively though. I dry hop in the keg, and carbonate it. Then I put the keg in the keezer. Let it crash, carb up nice, chill. Draw off the sludge in the first pint or so, then jump to a an empty and purged keg, then swap the kegs out.

 

I use CO2, but not in a perfectly closed system...I don't think you need to. Upright kegs are purged w/o lids for ~ 8 sec @ 30# and burped 3 times when racking is complete. Primary bucket is drained to the keg by gravity through a spigot. First pour from spigot is tossed as is first pour from keg. I occasionally will xfer to another keg, but really not worth the extra effort unless I want to use my randal.
This simple, easy method has served me well and racking/dryhopping day doesn't seem like a chore.

 

My best tip is don't be greedy.

 

like most of my equipment, i take it into the shower. just run hot water through it and any beer goes down the drain. then it gets hung up until it dries. more hot water right before use and its always ready to use.
Cheers.

 

I just wash mine in the kitchen sink, but should really get a sink in the shed or garage before my wife kills me.

 

What's a racking cane? : )

 

The carboy people don't want to hear how easy it is to co2 transfer from a sealed bucket with a spigot into a sealed keg.

 

I'd like to hear it. What apparatus is used to feed the CO2 into the bucket?

 

Tubing with a tapered plastic barb on the end. The airlock gets pulled and the co2 barb is promptly inserted. I use low pressure 2-4psi. Gravity does most of the work until the last gallon, then the co2 helps to push the rest.

The lid never gets removed during fermentation for gravity samples. Gravity samples are pulled from the spigot.

I use a lid with a grommet and it holds pressure without leaking. The lid is standard on the 7.9 gallon LD Carlson buckets also known as the Vino Vessel. The smaller brew buckets have a lid without a grommet and leak co2.

 

How many molecules of air enter during this questionable practice? : )

 

Not enough to matter, apparently. I'm seriously considering making my homebrew less awesome just so I can drink professional beer without feeling like I'm settling for less.

 

I have a 7.9 wine bucket. I'm thinking if I could sink an airtight thermowell into this setup, it could be sweet.

 

I have to admit that I regularly remove the whole bucket lid, replacing with a two hole lid that I forgot to use earlier in the process. I don't have any proof of this, but I feel like oxygen above the beer in the fermenter is much less of a problem than the oxygen introduced by autosiphon injection.