rate my first original DIPA

I think you're kinda upside down on the hops. Bitter at 60 with a low cohumulone, high AA hop (citra may meet these specs or may not, I don't know the specs off hand). Instead of 3 oz citra early and 1 late, blast that puppy with flameout hops.

Other than that, I have no particular issues with it. However, you might be getting a visit soon from the crystal police, since you have crystal malt but don't have sugar, thus proving that you are "evil."

I however, am not part of the crystal police.

Now the combo of citra and amarillo - sounds ginormously fantabulous!

 

Ill be that guy, cut the crystal 60 entirely.

Move all of the FW- Citra and Amarillo @ 60 to FO and dryhop.

Get enough Magnum or warrior @ 60 to get the IBUs where you want them.

Good Luck

 

Yeah, don't use Amarillo to bitter. And add more flavor additions. For a D/IPA, probably 90-99% of the hops should be going in between 15-0.

 

The first thing you need to change is your software: If you click on # it will list the steps in order . . . I got dizzy trying to read the ingredient list . Now check for updates because their are some more errors: 1 oz of Amarillo @ 8.5% for 60 minutes will yield more than 9.9 IBU . . . 3 oz of Citra @ 12% FW is more than 41 units. Or is your % column compressed and it's cutting off part of the true number . . . dizzy again? Also, the later versions of Beersmith shows bittering units for FO additions (by inputting time), you really don't want to ignore these IBUs.

I will disagree with the comments above on Citra & Amarillo being poor for early bittering. Cohumolone level for Amarillo is 21-24% and Citra is 22-24% (Magnum is 24-25%) so they should work just fine. But I agree that it is a waste of some of the best flavor/aroma hops in the world. Magnum will essentially do the same job (at about half the price) . . . keep the good stuff for where you will recognize it. I will suggest that 3 oz of Citra for FW has never been done.

Kern River Citra DIPA is a top brew that uses Citra/Amarillo . . . search Beersmith recipes and you can see how they blend these great hops.

 

I'm not saying they're bad for bittering, but, like you, I don't see the point of using hops so prized for their flavor contributions at 60 min when you won't get the great stuff they offer. Warrior is my bittering hop of choice because...well because it's what I bought and it was ~$1.00/oz or less. And considering I usually only use about .25 oz at a time, it lasts quite a while.

 

I would switch out some of the extract for sugar. I did an imperial ipa with 10 lb of DME and 1/2 lb of corn sugar that turned out to sweet.

 

Let me be the first to say your dryhop is way too long. 14 days of dryhopping, and even 10 days, will lead to some vegetal flavors. I have cut my dryhopping to 5 days max to prevent this (my last apa was dryhopped for a total of 7 days and got dinged for vegetal flavors in a comp.).

 

did you notice the vegetal flavors, or was it only from the judges? I know @JackHorzempa has mentioned before dry hopping much longer than 5 days (14 days was it?) with no vegetal flavors he noticed.

 

Yes, I have dry hopped for 14 days many times and I have never perceived any vegetal flavors in my beers. Some homebrewers dry hop in their kegs and they will have contact times much greater than 14 days and they report they do not perceive vegetal flavors in their beers.

Cheers!

P.S. In the book For the Love of Hops (pg. 222) it details that Sierra Nevada dry hops Celebration and Big Foot " for up to two weeks".

 

my PtE clone was dry hopped at 14 days and 5 and made my top six list. no vegetal flavors that I or anyone else noticed.

 

I noticed them as well. Perhaps my hops were questionable as well.

 

After the John Kimmich presentation link was posted on here I see a lot more people going with 5 days. Me being one of them.

 

With my last homebrewed hoppy pale ale, I just tossed the dry hops into the carboy. Didn't bother straining them out, and some transferred with the beer. The bottom part of the keg has taken on some noticeable harsh, vegetal flavors from a pretty small quantity of transferred hop pellet material now that it has been sitting on the hop material for a while. Haven't had such a flavor develop in any of my other kegged beers, so I'd say there is probably some risk of this from dry-hopping for too long.

As for the recipe - what is your water profile? The C60 ought to balance out your mash pH somewhat, but you might want to consider a few ounces of acidulated malt to bring it down to the 5.3-5.4 range. I'm also not a member of the Crystal police per se, but I have to ask why you are including the C60. It certainly has its uses, but are you sure you want it in your recipe? Extract tends to contribute significantly darker colors to a beer than the software tends to indicate, and likewise I've noticed it provides some caramel malt-like qualities to the finished product.

 

Process is much more impactful than recipe. Sure, recipe formulation and ingredient quality is important, but all that really is just a gameplan. The process is the execution of the gameplan.