Recipe help/critique

I can't really think of a good reason for Carahell or Carapils in a hefe.
The flameout hops will give you some flavor and aroma. Not traditional, but if that's what you want, go for it.

 

Well, both would increase head retention in most beers. But a hefe, which is about 50% or more wheat malt, doesn't really need the help.

I wasn't referring to the variety of hop, but rather the flameout timing. That's the non-traditional part. Hallertau Tradition should be fine as a bittering (60 minute) hop in a hefe. Again, if you want hop flavor/aroma, go ahead and add it at flameout. Just don't expect it to taste like a traditional hefe.

 

If you trying to brew a traditional hefeweizen then I agree with what has been posted: nix the crystal malts (carahell and carapils) and do not add flameout hops.

It was stated: “Want to brew a Bavarian hefeweizen with more banana than clove flavor/aroma.” I have never brewed with WLP300 but I have brewed with the Wyeast equivalent of 3068. If you want to accentuate the banana vs. clove while using 3068 you need to ferment warm (e.g., 70°F). Fermenting cooler (lower 60’s) would accentuate the clove and diminish the banana. I am not sure what type of brew belt you have but if you have the simple ‘rubber band’ type brew belt that is not recommended for glass carboys.

If you solely brew with DME (nix the crystal malts), you should bump up the amount to something like 6 lbs.

Good luck with your hefeweizen.

Cheers!

 

The fermwrap is the conservative thing to do since it is designed for carboy use.

The towel approach with the brew belt might be OK with a carboy but it would be irresponsible of me to recommend that.

Do you have a thermostat control to use with your brew belt/fermwrap?

Cheers!

 

About 5.25 to 5.5 lbs of DME should get you into the right range for a hefe. And yes, about an ounce of any Noble hop (of which Tettnang is one) or similar hop at 60 minutes. That's it! (If you want to make a classic hefe.)

 

I know that as homebrewers, we want to put our signature on a beer, and the easiest way to see that this happens through the use of specialty malts and hopping schedules. But it's different with a hefe. This beer is driven by yeast character. A simple grist, using just wheat DME, is the best way to make an extract hefe, IMO.

You said you wanted to emphasize banana. Do this through yeast selection and temperature control. WLP300 is a good choice, with fermentation temps toward the mid-high end of the recommended range.

 

“Should I use a yeast starter on this?”

You will hear varying opinions on that question. I personally am of the opinion that you do not need a yeast starter for an ale of original gravity less than 1.050.

Let’s wait and see what other posts are made on this topic.

Cheers!

 

I brewed a tradition Hefe about 4 weeks ago from nothern brewer. It was just 6 lbs wheat LME, 1 lb wheat DME, & 1 oz Tettnanger. I used Wyeast 3068 and fermented at about 64, I was going for more clove than Bananna. It tastes great just needs a bit more carbonation. One more week and it should be perfect. The yeast does all of the work in Hefe's.

 

I think the WLP300 and Wyeast 3068 are pretty similar (just from what I was reading when trying to decide). Like you said, just get that temp right and I'm sure you will have a tasty Hefe.

 

Agreed. If anything, slightly underpitching will generally increase ester production, which will help with the goal of being heavier on the banana side of things. Just keep your temperature in check during the first 24 - 48 hours, this strain is quite active and you don't want to get it TOO hot between the normal warmth of yeast reproduction/activity and the fermwrap. Not sure what your ambient temperature is, but if it's 64 or above, I'd leave the Fermwrap off until 48 - 72 hours into fermentation.

 

Liquid yeasts are allegedly pitchable for 5 gallons of wort with a gravity of 1.040. For your hefeweizen, the gravity would be higher. A small starter is helpful to reassure you of the yeast's viability, but as others have said, slight underpitching can elevate ester production. If you are not familiar with the yeast pitching calculator at MrMalty.com, you miight have a look. It suggests a ~1.5 L starter. So you could do a 1L starter and still slightly underpitch. You also need to consider the date of yeast manufacture when considering size of the starter. I almost always end up making one.

So, I would make a starter and try to achieve the ester production by manipulating temps, but I've never actually manipulated temps in my own hefes for this purpose. In lieu of the advice of a brewer experienced in this regard, I would pitch in the mid-high 60s and ramp it up a couple degrees every couple of days until I got to the high end of the yeast's recommended range.

 

pweis909 states: “Liquid yeasts are allegedly pitchable for 5 gallons of wort with a gravity of 1.040.”

I recognize that he chose to use the word “allegedly” in that sentence but I disagree that this word needs to be utilized in that sentence. The value of 1.040 is incorrect in that sentence; the value should be less than1.060. This limit of less than 1.060 is for ales. So, the corrected sentence would be: Liquid yeasts are pitchable for 5 gallons of wort with a gravity of less than1.060 for ales.

Below is what Wyeast and White Labs state on this topic (on their websites):

Wyeast:

“6. Do I need to make a starter for an Activator?

No. The Activator is designed to deliver professional pitch rates (6 million cells/ ml.) when directly added to 5 gallons of wort. (<1.060 at 70 degrees). However, if a package is slow to swell, suspected of being mishandled, or if the date is approaching the six month shelf life it is a good idea to build the culture up with a starter. High gravity or low temperature fermentations require higher pitch rates. This can be achieved with inoculating with additional packages or making a starter.”

White Labs:

“While a starter is not always necessary, White Labs recommends making a starter if the Original Gravity is over 1.060, if the yeast is past its "Best Before" date, if you are pitching lager yeast at temperatures below 65F, or if a faster start is desired.”

Cheers!