Sight Glass

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by jbakajust1, Aug 14, 2013.

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  1. jbakajust1

    jbakajust1 Pooh-Bah (2,552) Aug 25, 2009 Oregon
    Pooh-Bah

    If I were to buy one of these sight glass tubes from Bargainfittings can I slide it down inside a SS Street elbow with an ID of 1/2" and have a snug liquid tight fit, or will I need to add something else? Could I buy a SS cap to fit the elbow and drill it to allow the 1/2" tubing through and slide it down over the sight glass with a silicone washer and thread onto the street elbow (if just putting it inside the fitting will not work)? I realize that they sell the entire kit for $25, but the sight glass is only $6 and I can buy the other SS parts local for around $6 to build it myself.
     
  2. GreenKrusty101

    GreenKrusty101 Initiate (0) Dec 4, 2008 Nevada

    If you DON'T plan on a 3 tier system, you don't even need/want a sight glass...just say'in
     
  3. Beerontwowheels

    Beerontwowheels Initiate (0) Nov 22, 2009 Maryland

    Check out the products from Bobby M. I bought two sight glasses from his website. Reasonable (to me) prices, great service, fantastic products. Seriously.

    Edit 1: Brewhardware.com is his site. He's a very active user on HBT.

    Edit 2: http://brewhardware.com/wlsightglass
     
    PortLargo likes this.
  4. telejunkie

    telejunkie Savant (1,107) Sep 14, 2007 Vermont

    you still need to get the bulkhead fittings so not sure how you could put it together for $6. I got mine from bargainfittings but that was just because they had other parts I needed when i was putting my system together.

    Now I see what you're saying...sounding kinda ghetto and I seriously doubt it would be liquid tight. Not saying you couldn't make it happen, but would be shocked if you could.
     
  5. PortLargo

    PortLargo Pooh-Bah (1,831) Oct 19, 2012 Florida
    Pooh-Bah

    I don't see how this would work without some serious trail and error. The easy part is inserting the tube to the elbow. But how will you make the connection waterproof? A smooth polycarbonate tube mated to ss threads is not going to work. Same with a cap, easy to drill and insert tube, but it must be watertight, food grade, and able to stand repeated boiling temps. A silicone washer will only work if you have some threaded connection on both sides to apply compression (i.e. locking nut/coupler). There are some wonderful adhesives out there, not saying it can't be done, but this will take some experimenting and the connection is vital to the brew process.

    Even if you solve this problem, you will still need the elbow, flat washer, silicone washer and locking nut or coupler for the interior as a minimum.

    My sight gauge was from Bobby M and the polycarbonate came attached to the elbow. To the best of my knowledge, it is not intended to be taken apart. You will also need an ultra-skinny bristle brush to scrub the tube. I'm a fairly serious DIY'er, but deferred in this case. BTW, I do recommend a sight gauge . . . makes the job easier and looks impressive to the uninitiated.
     
  6. telejunkie

    telejunkie Savant (1,107) Sep 14, 2007 Vermont

    ?? I have a 2-tier and find a sight glass on all my vessels to be helpful...HLT for strike & sparge water volumes, MLT least useful, but still reference it during lautering since I keep the lid on the MLT on, BK is most useful since it will tell me volume of wort.
     
  7. GreenKrusty101

    GreenKrusty101 Initiate (0) Dec 4, 2008 Nevada

    "looks impressive to the uninitiated."...main advantage if it's not a HLT 8' up in the air, IMHO
     
  8. jbakajust1

    jbakajust1 Pooh-Bah (2,552) Aug 25, 2009 Oregon
    Pooh-Bah


    Really? Sight glass on my HLT (2nd kettle) and BK are extremely desirable. On the HLT I know when I have the strike and sparge volumes I want. On the BK I know when I have my pre-boil volume, can keep tabs on my progress (am I evaporating at a higher rate than usual today?), and know my post-boil volumes for efficiency purposes. I will know exactly how much wort I have before racking and in my fermenter. I realize that I can just mark a wooden dowel but then I have to find it when I need it, need multiples since my new 49/70/90 qt kettles are not all the same size, and run the risk of infecting batches from dipping the wood into unboiled wort with lots of lacto and other stuff in it, then dipping it back into chilled wort prior to fermentation (I have sour mashed by dropping the mash temp to 120*F from the mash temp of 150*F w/o new grains, enough bacteria can survive and keep multiplying over time as you keep adding more each brew day).
     
  9. jbakajust1

    jbakajust1 Pooh-Bah (2,552) Aug 25, 2009 Oregon
    Pooh-Bah

    I may just go with the basic one I have on my keggle now, 90* street elbow and 1/2" ID silicone tubing. Toss a 1/2" to 3/8" SS hex bushing on the inside.
     
  10. GreenKrusty101

    GreenKrusty101 Initiate (0) Dec 4, 2008 Nevada

    Not trying to be a dick, but what would stop you from just looking in a below-eye-level kettle?
     
  11. jbakajust1

    jbakajust1 Pooh-Bah (2,552) Aug 25, 2009 Oregon
    Pooh-Bah


    Inability to accurately mark the inside of the kettle with volumes.
     
  12. GreenKrusty101

    GreenKrusty101 Initiate (0) Dec 4, 2008 Nevada

    Just another place to leak and bugs to hide (not to mention the expense), IMHO. Cheers
     
  13. jbakajust1

    jbakajust1 Pooh-Bah (2,552) Aug 25, 2009 Oregon
    Pooh-Bah


    Definitely understand. I have one on my current keggle (welded NPT with brass elbow and barb) that has worked great for the 2 years I have had it. No infections from it (boiling wort in there as well as the heat transfer that low on the kettle) so far. I shoot water in from the open top after every brew to clean it free from any debri/trub/hops. Thanks for the input though, things to consider.
     
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