That Was Fast

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by epic1856, Jan 7, 2014.

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  1. epic1856

    epic1856 Initiate (0) Aug 11, 2006 California

    Love it when yeast do their thing. So far so good.

    Brewed a RIS on 12/29/13. OG: 1.101

    Checked Gravity 1/6/13, 1.030

    Not bad for 8 days in the fermentor. Gonna let is sit for another 2 weeks hopefully drops another 5 points, but not expecting much more.

    Yeast: S-04, 2 packets
    Fermentation Temp; 68 degrees5 Gallons

    Attenuation: 70.3%
    ABV: 9.3%
     
  2. mikehartigan

    mikehartigan Maven (1,421) Apr 9, 2007 Illinois

    Fermentation - the part where the yeast converts sugar to alcohol and other, less interesting stuff :wink: takes only a couple of days, in my experience. Obviously, a 1.101 beer will take longer, but I wouldn't expect much more, either. Keep in mind, though, there's a lot more for the yeast to do, so you don't want to rush things. I typically let my 'normal' beers (<1.060 or so) sit for at least three weeks. Bigger beers go a month or more. There's really no need to hurry it along, unless, of course, your pipeline has dried up:grimacing:! That's why you really should keep busy.
     
    #2 mikehartigan, Jan 7, 2014
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2014
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  3. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Grand Pooh-Bah (3,452) May 21, 2010 Texas
    Society Pooh-Bah

    Do you plan to secondary, and if so, for approximately how long? Curious because I imagine some sort of exponential curve (up to a point) for necessary aging for bigger and bigger imperial stout type beers. [ABV verses necessary aging time graph]

    Anybody who wishes to chime in on this (pretty generalized) question, feel free. I am not an experienced imperial stout maker, with n=0.
     
  4. bgjohnston

    bgjohnston Initiate (0) Jan 14, 2009 Connecticut

    I go 5-6 weeks in primary on bigger beers (checking gravity beginning on week 5), then bottle and allow the bottles to condition indefinitely until consumption, but a minimum of a month. My goal in doing it this way is to ensure that the yeast is actually finished with the beer, but still viable enough to carbonate the bottles.
     
  5. bgjohnston

    bgjohnston Initiate (0) Jan 14, 2009 Connecticut

    If I did not bottle condition, I would go 6-8 weeks in primary, verify stable gravity, and keg.
     
  6. epic1856

    epic1856 Initiate (0) Aug 11, 2006 California

    I usually start checking gravity daily at the 3 week mark and keg when fermentation is complete.

    I do not secondary, I go straight to keg and then let age there. Expecting this one to age at least 6 months before I start transferring to bottles.
     
  7. mikehartigan

    mikehartigan Maven (1,421) Apr 9, 2007 Illinois

    I don't bother checking gravity to see if fermentation is complete. in my experience, three weeks is plenty for a small beer, a month for a big beer (actually, a week is probably overkill for both). I take a gravity reading at that point just to confirm that fermentation has, indeed, occurred, and to update my notes. That happens on kegging day. The only time I actually do anything based on gravity is when it's grossly under-attenuated.
     
  8. rocdoc1

    rocdoc1 Savant (1,215) Jan 13, 2006 New Mexico

    The times I've had big beers ferment that fast the temps got real high for at least a day. How did you control the fermentation temp? Was that 68F the ambient temp?
     
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  9. bgjohnston

    bgjohnston Initiate (0) Jan 14, 2009 Connecticut

    Like rocdoc1 says, big beers get hot. And I will add, having the ambient temperature low enough to keep the fermenting beer under control slows things down a bit. I had a 1.090 OG beer fail to finish in 4 weeks in a 60°F space (wort temperature was close to 70° at its peak). The gravity dropped another 5 points going into week 6. So I just wait a bit longer before I even start checking, since I don't want to end up checking it a half dozen times or more.

    Of course, if you have a need to hurry, then you can start checking after a week, but if you planned a big investment on the ingredients and time to make a RIS, then why not plan to let the yeast have plenty of time to get the best result you can? If you don't believe extra time on the yeast is beneficial, then I'm not sure what this discussion is about.
     
  10. rocdoc1

    rocdoc1 Savant (1,215) Jan 13, 2006 New Mexico

    Have you tasted this beer yet? Is it alcohol hot or smooth? Be honest. If it's hot leave it in primary an extra 2 weeks, that'll help smooth it out.
     
  11. southdenverhoo

    southdenverhoo Pooh-Bah (1,567) Aug 13, 2004 Colorado
    Pooh-Bah

    It was S-04, too; in my hands at least, that one can run hot even on 14-15 Plato worts. But it will go fast, thats for sure.

    I understand it's contrary to the prevailing wisdom around here but I'd transfer to a secondary (carefully & to a properly CO2-purged secondary) and let it condition there. Enough yeast to do what clean-up is left to do will make the trip, and the risk of all that voracious S-04 starting to eat itself is eliminated. Though I acknowledge that among home brewers the prevailing wisdom is that there's no meaningful risk of autolysis in our application, and that the risk of infection and oxidation in the transfer outweighs the risk of autolysis, I don't buy it 100% and this is exactly the set up where I would think it might go the other way.
     
  12. bgjohnston

    bgjohnston Initiate (0) Jan 14, 2009 Connecticut

    I used to transfer all of my bigger beers to a carboy to secondary, but have been open to experimentation and found that both primary-only and a secondary seems to result in a good finished beer. My bigger beers are always bottle conditioned, too, getting an additional period of conditioning until consumption.
     
  13. rocdoc1

    rocdoc1 Savant (1,215) Jan 13, 2006 New Mexico

    I left big beers(over 1.080 OG) in primary for a month, then transferred to kegs and let them sit until I was ready for them. The extra time in primary allowed the fusels created by high fermentation temps to either be dealt with by yeast or evaporate(I don't understand the cleanup process but I know it works), then bulk aging in the serving keg really cleared the beer up.
     
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