Thick Beer

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by danedelman, Nov 29, 2012.

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  1. PangaeaBeerFood

    PangaeaBeerFood Initiate (0) Nov 30, 2008 New York

    There's your issue. 1.020 is very low for a beer of that strength. A lot of very big beers, sometimes they have gravities of 1.040 or higher. Adding higher protein grains (like wheat) to the malt bill could also increase body.
     
  2. GeorgiaBeerGuy

    GeorgiaBeerGuy Initiate (0) May 31, 2013 Georgia

    At the effort of not starting a new thread… I am posting a though that just occurred to me as I drained the last of my first pour of this THICK stout…

    [​IMG]

    I remember back in the "early phases" of my craft adventure, that discussions about stouts always started with "they're too thick…" and this typically started when someone in the group was drinking Guinness. And the conversation would always work it's way to "it's lighter in calories and alcohol than Bud…." and it's not "thick…" it's drinkable!

    My point is, back in the day, I used to defend stouts as not being that thick, whereas now I want
    my stout to be thick!

    Preferences… I guess they change over time!
     
  3. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Initiate (0) Dec 20, 2006 New York

    I've gotten more viscosity out of rye malt than anything else, though I suspect that the very full body you're finding in the commercial beers you mentioned is due to a high final gravity.

    Also, the maillard reaction and caramelization are not the same thing, this is a common misconception.
     
  4. skivtjerry

    skivtjerry Pooh-Bah (1,865) Mar 10, 2006 Vermont
    Pooh-Bah

  5. GUNSLINGER

    GUNSLINGER Initiate (0) Nov 18, 2013 Colorado

    All good advice thus far. Especially the yeast selection.

    Also consider a modified sparge or no sparge at all. It definitely yields a maltier thicker brew.
     
  6. inchrisin

    inchrisin Pooh-Bah (2,013) Sep 25, 2008 Indiana
    Pooh-Bah

    NO. Not (trying) to be a dick.

    OP: I think that it's a matter of getting the best %60 mash you can out of a heavy beer at this point. You're going to mash at like 1.1qt water/lb grain and you're going to get 6+ gal of wort off the first runnings of a a huge grainbill. Using the right yeast is also importatnt. 1.020 is kind of low on such a big starting gravity. Finishing around 1.025 or 1.028 is a huge difference.

    For r a BCBS (15% beer) I'd overpitch like crazy. They say it conditions 5 years before they sell it to you. Oak the crap out of the beer and let it sit. Sanitation is a MUST here. Any infection has 5 years to show up. I'd use the oven on the flask before making a huge starter directly from Wyeast or WLP. Stir plate it and chill EVERYTHING quickly.
     
  7. memory

    memory Zealot (700) Oct 2, 2005 Pennsylvania

    Would love a proven good recipe that works for Ten Fidy or BORIS.
    HB42?
     
  8. danedelman

    danedelman Initiate (0) Apr 3, 2011 Pennsylvania

    Wow was I a dumbass back then.....dry yeast. ha! still a place for it but.

    Amazing how our tastes change. I started brewing more sessionable styles again. Although I did a Barleywine that weighed in at 13% and made it dry so it will age nicely and pick up some oxidation over the years to increase the complexity. Thanks for re opening this thread.
     
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