Tips on dry hopping in Primary

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by TxNative, Mar 11, 2015.

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  1. TxNative

    TxNative Initiate (0) Mar 10, 2015 Texas

    Ok, so Ive been battling myself as to whether or not I want to secondary my beer. And a majority of this internal conflict came from reading Palmers online addition of How to Brew which insinuates it is best to secondary with high OG beers. But after reading much more recent comments made by Palmer and Jamil I have finally made up my mind. Primary Only. Ill let the primary, secondary, and conditioning phases go down in one fermenter.

    But now to add to my decision making issues Im hearing "pro-primary only" people make exceptions for dry hopping. Im planning on just throwing them in (pellet hops) 7 days until I bottle, and then when I siphon into the bottling bucket Ill throw some mesh over the siphon. Does this sound ok?
     
  2. MrOH

    MrOH Grand Pooh-Bah (3,995) Jul 5, 2010 Virginia
    BA4LYFE Society Pooh-Bah

    It's what I do.
     
  3. SollaSollew

    SollaSollew Initiate (0) Mar 7, 2015 Washington

    It sounds great ! If you're asking these type questions, I'm gathering you've brewed a few batches in your time. I always move my IPA's to a secondary because that's how I've always done it, and my beers are getting better and better with each batch. I change up my hop additions and timing before I bottle to see what is better.. The fun of Homebrewing right ? Remember when you made batches that tasted like dishwater ? I do, and it wasn't because I dry hopped in the primary. You can find solid arguments supporting each theory. Try it both ways. Split half the batch to a small carboy as a secondary and see which brew tastes better to you.. There's no wrong answer in this debate.
     
  4. pweis909

    pweis909 Grand Pooh-Bah (3,250) Aug 13, 2005 Wisconsin
    Pooh-Bah

    Sounds reasonable. You might experiment to see what you like best:
    -adding dry hops before the yeast finish allegedly can alter their flavor profile in interesting ways.
    -adding dry hops before the yeast finish can cause hop resins to floc with the yeast.
    -adding dry hops at multiple times (before and after yeast floc) may help you get the best of both worlds. (Or just adding more dry hops before yeast floc should overwhelm the capacity of yeast to sorb to resins).
    -duration of dry hops may change your perception of them.
    -the above may vary with hop type and yeast type.

    If you are not into massive beer experiments, start with the simplest approach and tweak until satisfied.
     
  5. Scope4Beer

    Scope4Beer Zealot (677) Sep 28, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Trader

    If you dry hop with pellets in the primary, which as a matter of fact I just did 10 min ago, using a 1 gal nylon paint strainer over your siphon come bottling time is key. I just boil in it water for 10 min, attach it to the siphon, and then set it in my bucket of sanitizer until I'm ready to use it. If you have the ability to cold crash, that also seems to help the pellets drop out of suspension and clarify the beer.
     
  6. Lukass

    Lukass Pooh-Bah (2,891) Dec 16, 2012 Ohio
    Pooh-Bah

    I've done this many times, with good results. Just try to avoid splashing as much as possible, which can be tough if your using a glass carboy with a narrow neck because you pretty much have to dump them in from there.
     
  7. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    Another option is to place the hops in a muslin bag weighed down with sanitized marbles.

    Cheers!
     
    TrojanHopHead likes this.
  8. TxNative

    TxNative Initiate (0) Mar 10, 2015 Texas

    Thanks for all of the suggestions yall. Ill be sure to throw an update on here in a couple of weeks.
     
  9. NeroFiddled

    NeroFiddled Grand High Pooh-Bah (7,276) Jul 8, 2002 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    As a professional brewer, I've only ever dry-hopped in primary - if you will. But with a uni-tank you can pull off yeast and hops from the bottom, which eliminates the need for going to secondary. And as a home brewer I can tell you that whatever mesh you put over the siphon will not work - it will just clog - and then you've got problems! If it did work and the beer was able to get through it would take forever. Do yourself a favor and secondary it or use something like JackHorzempa suggested (although that's difficult to do as well) :slight_smile:
     
    #9 NeroFiddled, Mar 11, 2015
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2015
  10. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    Why do you state" "difficult to do as well"?

    Cheers!
     
  11. NeroFiddled

    NeroFiddled Grand High Pooh-Bah (7,276) Jul 8, 2002 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    Ahh, just the whole thing of getting the hops in, then getting them out of the bag so you can remove it. It's not impossible, but it's far more effort than racking to secondary.
     
  12. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    My primary fermenter is a plastic bucket. My process is opening the lid and then gently lowering the muslin bag into the beer.

    I have also used this method for carboys. Pretty easy to get it into the carboy but removing it takes a little bit of work, I use a pair of scissors to cut the bag and then 'pour' out the marbles and spent hops.

    I won't do an actual comparison of effort to a secondary approach other than stating that there are two potential downsides to using a secondary:
    • One more step which can add unwanted microorganisms (potential for infection)
    • Additional introduction to air (oxygen) which will increase the DO in the beer.
    Cheers!
     
  13. TxNative

    TxNative Initiate (0) Mar 10, 2015 Texas

    If I did decide to use the marbles and muslin bag would that be pointless if I was using hop pellets? Or would they stay in there even after they soften and dissolve?

    Im a rookie brewer, Ive only watched a few batches be done and this batch Im talking about right now is my first personal batch. So I may even consider forgetting about the dry hops for the sake of not contaminating my beer by going to a secondary. I know a fair amount about brewing because Im about as methodical as they come, and I like to learn every little thing about my projects before I start them, but I have little to no on hand experience.
     
  14. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    Depends on the bag, but generally most of the hop material would stay inside.

    ETA: They don't dissolve in the technical sense of the word.
     
  15. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    I solely use pellet hops for dry hopping. The hop material stays within the muslin bags that I use (purchased from Northern Brewer).

    Cheers!
     
  16. Buck89

    Buck89 Grand Pooh-Bah (3,782) Feb 7, 2015 Tennessee
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    How do you sanitize the muslin bag before adding the pellets?
     
  17. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    I boil the muslin bag and marbles.

    Cheers!
     
    GetMeAnIPA and pweis909 like this.
  18. TxNative

    TxNative Initiate (0) Mar 10, 2015 Texas

    Awesome stuff, really appreciate the supportive nature of this forum. Ive been to a few other places and the "helpful environment" is definitely missing a little bit.
     
  19. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    +1 to boiling. I dip the bag (and in my case, stainless steel washers) in boiling water for maybe 30 seconds.
     
  20. Chumley22

    Chumley22 Initiate (0) Sep 28, 2013 Minnesota

    Curious to know if anyone has tried the Big Mouth Bubblers? Seems those would make dry hopping easier, especially if using the marbles in a bag method.
     
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