Two step starter questions

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by KeyWestGator, Jun 29, 2017.

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  1. KeyWestGator

    KeyWestGator Savant (1,159) Jan 21, 2013 Florida
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    I'm about to make the second step of a starter for the first time. Actually, the first step was my first time making a starter. It went fine once I realized that a double boiler was going to take two days to boil the starter wort and just put the flask on the burner on low.

    My first question is about the step sizes. Every calculator I used said I needed two steps. But there wasn't really a lot on the best way to get to the cell count needed. Is it better to do both steps as the same size, i.e one liter and another one liter, or a smaller one first then a bigger one? Playing with them for a little bit seemed like the latter. Is there a rule of thumb on the ratio of the first step to the second?

    Second question is more of a procedural best practice question. I let the first step spin for about 36 hours, then crashed it in the flask for another 36 hours. Needing the flask to measure my volume, I transferred the decanted yeast to a sanitized mason jar and will then pour it back into the flask once I've boiled and cooled my starter wort in the flask. Does anybody have any tips or tricks on how to manage these transfers to minimize contamination when I only have one flask?

    Thanks!
     
  2. KeyWestGator

    KeyWestGator Savant (1,159) Jan 21, 2013 Florida
    Trader

    Oh, and DME! Pain in the ass. I didn't brew extract for a few batches before moving to all grain and only used LME. What's the easiest way to get it down the flask neck without clumping up?
     
  3. HopsintheSack

    HopsintheSack Initiate (0) Apr 17, 2012 California

    I haven't done a step starter, but believe you want to go bigger. I think if cell density is too great it will inhibit growth.

    I would have decanted the excess liquid into a measuring cup or similar to find out the volume left behind vs dumping the yeast. Boil water and DME in pot, cool and pour in flask.
     
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  4. Supergenious

    Supergenious Maven (1,273) May 9, 2011 Michigan

    Starter size depends on OG and freshness of yeast mostly. I use this calculator: https://www.brewersfriend.com/yeast-pitch-rate-and-starter-calculator/
    But there a few others that work nice.

    Measuring wort volume for 2nd step: Google is wonderful thing- just use it to convert L to cups. Then boil in a separate pot, cool, and add back to starter.

    I find the easiest way to add DME to flask is do before water is too hot. The steam from water is what clumps it.

    Also, do you boil in flask? Because Fermcap or other foam inhibitor is very helpful in preventing boil overs.

    Good luck!
     
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  5. PortLargo

    PortLargo Pooh-Bah (1,831) Oct 19, 2012 Florida
    Pooh-Bah

    You almost never want to make a two-step starter in equal sizes. Yeast do not grow linearly, i.e. 1L + 1L ≠ 2L. Your goal is to optimize inoculation rate (number of yeast cells to starter wort). The most efficient inoc rate in the range of 40 - 125 million cells/ml of wort. This is where you get the most bang for your buck and with DME at $4/lb it saves you some dough.

    Don't let those weird numbers confuse you, the calculator does all the hard work. Use the calculator at Brewers Friend or yeastcalculator.com and they will have this figure in the fine print (look hard, it's there). Simply input your OG, quantity, and yeast date to get your target number of yeast cells. Then play around with the starter steps (looking at the inoc rate) to reach your target. You'll compute the proper step sizes with a few simple trail/error inputs. Typically it will be something like .5L followed by 1.2L. There is some wiggle room and I try not to have the second step exceed 1.4L to give me more headspace. If you like to make a little extra to save for the next brew day, here's where you compute that amount.

    Caveat: Both of these calculators (and Brewcipher) have variable "stir plate settings", based on different experimental growth rates. You'll wonder which one to use . . . no one can tell you, it will be influenced by your equipment, temp, and other variables unique to your process. After a few times you'll get a feel for what works best.

    Stirring for 36 hours is slight overkill but will not hurt anything, ditto for 36 hours of chilling. Who told you to use a double boiler to boil DME? The easiest way to "load" the flask is to boil (and cool) the DME in a separate sauce pan. Sanitize your flask once and pour the wort in through a funnel. After the first step is complete and you have de-canted, pour your second-step wort (cooled) in the same flask. That's right, the yeast never leave the flask until brew day when you pitch to primary. I'll go out on a limb and bet that somewhere in your kitchen you have another vessel to measure quantities. If you have yeast nutrient use it . . . ditto oxygen.

    This is so easy a Cave Man can do it.
     
    #5 PortLargo, Jun 29, 2017
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2017
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  6. EvenMoreJesus

    EvenMoreJesus Initiate (0) Jun 8, 2017 Pennsylvania

    Just curious, but how much yeast did you pitch into the original starter and what final volume were you aiming for? What volume is your main beer?
     
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  7. KeyWestGator

    KeyWestGator Savant (1,159) Jan 21, 2013 Florida
    Trader

    I did boil in the flask. Not sure if I will again for the reason you mentioned and also getting the DME in there.

    I read it a few places including the product info for the flask on MoreBeer. As I waited and waited for it to boil, I read some more and realized that it would be fine with that flask. Thanks for all the other pointers!

    One white labs package that was estimated by various calculators at about 50billion cells based on the Apr 9 manufacturing date. My first step was 1.2L. Now know that was unnecessarily large. Beer will be 5.5 gallons into fermenter at 1.072 (hopefully).
     
  8. EvenMoreJesus

    EvenMoreJesus Initiate (0) Jun 8, 2017 Pennsylvania

    If you're just eye-balling it, a fourth of a gallon or one liter is a pretty happy place for most "normal" ales.
     
  9. GreenKrusty101

    GreenKrusty101 Initiate (0) Dec 4, 2008 Nevada

    if you are making a 5 gal batch, a 1 litre starter with no stir plate should be fine for all but the most gravitas beers, imho.

    This assumes yeast born on date < 3months properly handled
     
  10. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    Yes, normally the second step would be larger than the first. With something like YeastCalc, you essentially have to decide on an inoculation rate for the first step, and there's probably help/notes to help you do that. Or if you don't want to be bothered with that, BrewCipher automatically recommends the number of steps and step sizes. You can manipulate that by changing min/max inoculation rate parameters, but you can also just leave the defaults alone and not have to think about inoculation rates/relative step size proportions at all.

    Just make sure everything that touches the yeast/wort is sanitary. That's about all there is to it. And don't make your starters in a peach orchard.
     
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