Uprright Freezer (Fermentation Chamber) Puzzler

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by VikeMan, Apr 9, 2019.

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  1. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    So, I bought a Kenmore 22042 upright freezer (thanks for the lead @NorCalKid) to use as a fermentation chamber, and I'm trying to determine where the condenser coil(s) is/are, so that I can drill one or more holes for temp controller probe lines and electrical cords. When I run the freezer, the sides definitely feel warmer, which I think should indicate coils in the side walls. However, unless I'm reading this wrong, the system diagram -> here <- shows a single condenser coil, in the rear (not the sides). Any ideas (other than "Don't drill, just wedge your wires under the door gaskets!")? @billandsuz
     
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  2. billandsuz

    billandsuz Pooh-Bah (2,097) Sep 1, 2004 New York
    Pooh-Bah

    Looks like a standard duty upright. The shelves are removable which is tells us it is frost free.

    The condenser coils are hung on the back of the unit and the evaporator is underneath everything. There is going to be tubing going between all that junk but you should be able to see everything. Just be certain you have the correct diagram. These appliances fairly generic; parts and design changes happen all the time.

    I think you are ok drilling. Famous last words.
    Maybe you can use your laser thermometer on the shell to see if the temperature cycles at all. The schematic does not show anything in the carcass though.

    That's one more set of eyes.
    Good luck.
     
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  3. riptorn

    riptorn Pooh-Bah (1,776) Apr 26, 2018 Georgia
    BA4LYFE Society Pooh-Bah Trader

    I love uprright puzzzlers.
    Is the unit inset in a cubby with adequate side clearance, or is it pretty much in the open?
    Are the sides warm near the top, near the bottom or full length?
    Pull the louvered vent from the bottom to see if any packing materials or other stuff might be obstructing air flow.

    ETA:
    Looking at the parts diagram you're probably okay....ibid billand suz.
     
  4. PortLargo

    PortLargo Pooh-Bah (1,831) Oct 19, 2012 Florida
    Pooh-Bah

    The safest place to drill in a freezer/fridge is the door. If that's unappealing then the next safest place is the compressor hump/bottom of unit, followed by the top. The diagram shows nothing on the sides, but I wouldn't risk it without at least doing some exploratory surgery.
     
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  5. billandsuz

    billandsuz Pooh-Bah (2,097) Sep 1, 2004 New York
    Pooh-Bah

    You could also carefully peel away the metal or plastic cover using a dremel or a razor. Just enough to get through the sheet but not into the foam insulation.
    Then poke a hole with a stiff wire through the foam. Cover it back up with metal duct tape or whatever.

    That's what I should have done :grimacing:
     
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  6. hoptualBrew

    hoptualBrew Initiate (0) May 29, 2011 Florida

    To piggyback off of @PortLargo ...

    Why not drill into bottom right (hinge) corner of door? That way no worries about damaging coils. Also, you will have to modify door anyways right? To remove shelving?
     
  7. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    So, here's an update. My freezer has no condenser coils outside of the unit. I was assuming the diagram that showed them on the outside of the back was just a half-assed "breakout" view, but @billandsuz's post caused me to seriously doubt that. I'm now convinced that the diagram is not correct for this model. And the fact that the sides got very warm while running convinced me there are coils in the sides. I don't have a laser thermometer, so I tried the vodka and cornstarch method to pinpoint the coils, which turned out to be a complete waste of time. So, what to do?

    I cut away a piece of the inner wall with a Dremel cutoff tool, then probed/excavated foam insulation with a screwdriver, reaching the outer wall safely. At that point, I drilled through the outer wall, still from the inside. I now have two controller probe wires and an electrical extension cord running into the freezer. The path is insulated with a grommet of sorts, some silicon calk (on the outside), and some expanding foam (coated with epoxy) on the inside. Bottom line: As @billandsuz said, "Just be certain you have the correct diagram."
     
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  8. billandsuz

    billandsuz Pooh-Bah (2,097) Sep 1, 2004 New York
    Pooh-Bah

    You did better than I did.

    [​IMG]
    I bricked Kegasaurus. A day that shall live in draft beer infamy. To add insult to injury the dump requires a certification that the freon has been properly recovered before they accept any fridge or freezer. So it cost me money for a technician to verify that yes, that freezer is worthless junk. And you pay the disposal fee too. And I had to buy another $700 26 cu/ft freezer.
    It's effed up man. I'm still bitter.

    That's my story. I'm happy for you.

    Fear not. Son of Kegasaurus lives on!
    [​IMG]
     
  9. NiceFly

    NiceFly Initiate (0) Dec 22, 2011 Tajikistan

    Around here the scrapyard takes anything. I helped my friend move out an old fridge for his aunt. We did not want any money for it so they basically destroyed it getting it off the trailer.

    Plus, anything and everything disappears within hours if it put it at the curb.

    Nice kegasarus btw.
     
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  10. telejunkie

    telejunkie Savant (1,107) Sep 14, 2007 Vermont

    Guess that's what happens in Tajikistan...

    Thinks it's like $35 to scrape any coolant-based appliance in these parts.
     
  11. PortLargo

    PortLargo Pooh-Bah (1,831) Oct 19, 2012 Florida
    Pooh-Bah

    This is the type thing I would never talk about . . . carry the heartache to my grave. Hmmm, which makes we wonder what you've done so wrong that is unspeakable . . .
     
  12. riptorn

    riptorn Pooh-Bah (1,776) Apr 26, 2018 Georgia
    BA4LYFE Society Pooh-Bah Trader

    Nice touch with the erasable labels on Daddy Kegasaurus. Looks like it might be (or similar to) a Krylon spray I've used that makes a chalkboard type finish.

    Red and black....you a UGA fan?
     
  13. billandsuz

    billandsuz Pooh-Bah (2,097) Sep 1, 2004 New York
    Pooh-Bah

    It's chalkboard paint. And it doesn't work too well. I do not know what UGA stands for. If it is a college team, no, I can't say I follow UGA.

    Kegasaurus is painted a different color every year. It has gotten progressively worse. The red was Fire Engine red gloss and it was wet sanded to a bright finish. With the Cadillac emblem it did look impressive. The picture does not show it so well. I think it needed Texas longhorns on it too.

    The year Prince died it was painted Purple with gold flakes. That was Son of Kegasaurus, which my son promptly named The Kegerator Formally Known as Kegasaurus..

    It is hot pink today. More like Bubble Gum.

    It will often have Christmas lights across the faucets too.

    I have to repaint it soon. Any ideas are appreciated.
    Cheers.
     
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  14. PapaGoose03

    PapaGoose03 Grand High Pooh-Bah (6,057) May 30, 2005 Michigan
    BA4LYFE Society Pooh-Bah

    Camo is still a big thing, at least here in Michigan. But then maybe you shouldn't because you'd never find your kegerator again. :grin:
     
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  15. riptorn

    riptorn Pooh-Bah (1,776) Apr 26, 2018 Georgia
    BA4LYFE Society Pooh-Bah Trader

    University of GA = red & black.

    I’ve had decent results with chalkboard paint, but it’s only used as a menu board when we have a large crowd over. Write on it, stand it up or hang it on the wall. It doesn’t get disturbed so there’s not much chance of smudges and smears.
    If you like the functionality of the chalkboard but not the performance because of smearing, maybe secure a piece of plexiglass to hinges (piano hinge) so it will lay flat? If not screwed to the top some decent cement would hold it. Think about that one, because if you don't like it you'll end up with a damaged top. But those bad spots can be simply buffed out by anyone who can wet-sand to a bright finish.
    Krylon also makes a clear dry-erase in a spray can. As prone as dry erase is to, well, erasure I think that might be less useful than chalkboard.

    Throwback to the late 60’s early 70’s with paisley Dayglo fluorescent paint and black lights, or if you can figure out how to get a tie-dye pattern....or even camo-glo.

    Hydro-dip it. :astonished:

    Hang a flip sign on the front; one side Free Beer and the other side Free Beer Tomorrow, depending on who’s visiting.
     
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  16. mikehartigan

    mikehartigan Maven (1,421) Apr 9, 2007 Illinois

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