Very long boil, Scottish ale

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by TastyAdventure, May 16, 2014.

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  1. TastyAdventure

    TastyAdventure Initiate (0) Nov 13, 2012 Kentucky

    Hello all,
    I want to brew a Scottish Ale next, it will be my fist brew on my new system (17.5 gal pot, new turkey fryer). I have been doing 5 gal AG batches split between 2 brew kettles on my stove top.
    I know that Traquiar House Ale is 100% Maris Otter, with the first runnings boiled for a VERY long time. I love that beer.
    Here's my plan, and I'm wondering if it makes sense:
    Mash for 30 min at 158, run off about 2.5 gallons, boil the crap out of it.
    Continue mashing the rest for another 30 min.
    Question #1) Will 30 min mash be enough for the first runnings?
    2) how long should I boil first runnings?
    3) what kind of boil off rate/gravity can I expect? Boiling down the first runnings from 2.5 to (my plan of) 1 gallon will obviously increase the gravity, if I continue to collect wort to get my full volume afterwords?

    I realize most of these questions are dependent on my system, but any advise on brewing a extremely long/first runnings boil, or advise on using a new 10 gallon system, will be very appreciated.
     
  2. JohnSnowNW

    JohnSnowNW Initiate (0) Feb 6, 2013 Minnesota

    When I did the Wee Heavy I collected 3qt of the first runnings at the end of the mash. I then boiled it while boiling the rest of the wort for 90 min. That was enough time to boil the first runnings down to a thickened syrup, and I added it back into the pot with 10 min left in the boil.

    IMHO, 2.5 gallons is more than you need to collect for a 5 gallon batch.

    When boiling the first runnings you need to make sure that you don't boil it down so much that you end up scorching it. It can happen quite easily if you aren't watching it.
     
    inchrisin likes this.
  3. hoptualBrew

    hoptualBrew Initiate (0) May 29, 2011 Florida

    Iodine test for the 30 min collection to see if starches converted. 2.5 gal would probably take at least an hour or more to boil down to 50% or denser. Boil down won't effect OG unless you don't collect full volume. If you collect full volume, your tail runnings will be making up for that ~1 gal boil down, since you will be collecting more low gravity volume to replace the lost boil down volume.

    It's all relative, there is only so much potential yield from a certain grist. Depending factor is final post boil volume.
     
  4. inchrisin

    inchrisin Pooh-Bah (2,013) Sep 25, 2008 Indiana
    Pooh-Bah

    I'm not actually sure that this accomplishes a lot and would be curious to hear what others have to say about extended boils, boiling a syrup on the side, or possibly using a high percentage of melanoidin malt.
     
  5. hoptualBrew

    hoptualBrew Initiate (0) May 29, 2011 Florida

    I think getting a good Scotch ale isn't so much about boil length, but other factors in the process... low hop rates, yeast strain that is a low attenuator, fermentation & conditioning process, high mash temps, water, etc.
     
  6. ThomP

    ThomP Initiate (0) Nov 22, 2007 Texas

    I make about three or four beers in this manner, it adds a complexity of caramel flavors, those achieved when using Crystal malts, the grist on most of mine are totally void of crystal malts. I also over sparge and boil the wort for an extended time to allow for carmelization of the wort in the kettle, at least 90 min, but usually closer to 2.5 hours.Makes for a real good easy drinking beer, go for your plan, i'll be one of your best. However extend your mash to 60 minutes to get complete conversion.
    ThomP
     
  7. FATC1TY

    FATC1TY Pooh-Bah (2,564) Feb 12, 2012 Georgia
    Pooh-Bah

    I did it in my scotch ale and found no really assistance to the end product. Didn't have the other scotch ale to compare too, but the extra work.. not really worth it.

    Toss in some melanoiden malt and leave it alone unless you need to sparge more to get better efficiency. 90 minutes should be plenty to boil, IMO.

    But if you've never done it, it's worth a shot to see what you think, so I think your plan is probably sound. 30 min should get you good conversion with some standard well modified malts.
     
  8. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,055) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    I know this was in the context of a Scottish Ale, and the OP's mash temp makes me think he's looking for a big body, but just a general sidebar comment...

    I think the iodine test is of pretty limited value, unless you're trying for the least fermentable wort possible, because the test simply indicates that there are no starches present, but doesn't tell you anything about the mix of sugars (simple/complex) and unfermentable dextrins that is still evolving. That's why I think it's important to learn (and predict) wort fermentability given your process and variables like mash time/temp for a given grain bill.
     
  9. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Initiate (0) Dec 20, 2006 New York

    I've tried this a few times and IMO boiling 2.5 gallons down to 1 isn't really a "VERY long boil"...I've had to boil 3 gallons of first runnings down to less than a quart to get any noticeable effect out of this, I then added that quart to enough second runnings to get up to my pre boil volume and boiled for an additional 3 hours. The over all effect on the beer was nice but subtle.

    Cue marquis to bust your balls about "Scottish ale" and long boils.
     
    psnydez86 and inchrisin like this.
  10. marquis

    marquis Pooh-Bah (2,313) Nov 20, 2005 England
    Pooh-Bah

    On cue. yes, just another of those dreadful myths about Scottish brewing.There are no records at all of long boils , in fact they tended to be shorter than average.Thankfully Ron (aka patto1ro) has written a well researched book on the subject.
    http://www.lulu.com/shop/ronald-pattinson/scotland/paperback/product-20455803.html
    A good thing because Scottish brewing has been shamefully misrepresented.Worst of all by generally "respected beer writers" , just look at the Oxford Companion to see this.
     
  11. TastyAdventure

    TastyAdventure Initiate (0) Nov 13, 2012 Kentucky

    How do you know when scorching is starting to occur?

    I'll be doing a ~9 gal batch, but I still think I'll start with less than 2 gallons for my "caramelized syrup."

    And I have read the debate about the myth of long Scottish boils. But honestly the only thing that matters is that Traquir House is most definitely boiled a very long time, and that flavor profile is what I am going for.
     
  12. JohnSnowNW

    JohnSnowNW Initiate (0) Feb 6, 2013 Minnesota

    Scorching can start to happen when you reach a thickness of, say, maple syrup...and possibly before depending on the amount of heat your're using. As to when you would notice it physically, it would probably be a little late at that point. I would just watch it really carefully, and don't hesitate to be a little conservative with your reduction.
     
  13. FATC1TY

    FATC1TY Pooh-Bah (2,564) Feb 12, 2012 Georgia
    Pooh-Bah

    I saw this thread and KNEW marquis was gonna come in here shortly enough. Almost paged him. :wink:
     
  14. marquis

    marquis Pooh-Bah (2,313) Nov 20, 2005 England
    Pooh-Bah

    I don't have any problem with brewers using a long boil , homebrewing is all about suiting yourself after all. Here's a recipe for a nice Scotch Ale.105 IBU , 1.75 hour boil , straight from the record books at Younger's;

    http://barclayperkins.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/lets-brew-wednesday-1868-william.html
     
  15. Hanglow

    Hanglow Pooh-Bah (2,039) Feb 18, 2012 Scotland
    Pooh-Bah

    Here's the recipe I've got for Traquair House Ale, fwiw

    99% MO
    1% roast barley
    OG 1.070
    FG 1.015
    ABV 7.2%

    Mash@148F

    2 hour boil

    hops -
    2.5g/l EKG bittering
    1.5g/l EKG late addition

    Edinburgh ale yeast
     
  16. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Initiate (0) Dec 20, 2006 New York

    Caramelizing or scorching is not going to occur until you boil nearly ALL of the water out of the solution, which is not going to happen by boiling 2.5 or 2 gallons down to 1 gallon, not even close. You'll definitely get some darkening from the wort concentrating and from melanoidin compounds forming, but you're not going to get caramelization or scorching unless you go much farther than that.

    As I said above, I've boiled 3 gallons of 1st runnings down to less than a quart without any scorching issues, I stopped when it turned a deep mahogany color and I started to get toffee like aromas coming off it. I was scared at this point that I was scorching it, but I've done it a few times and have never had an issue. This was always for a 5 gallon batch and the beers were always good but the effect from boiling down the 1st runnings was very subtle, so I suspect that boiling 2 gallons down to 1 gallon for a batch thats 9 gallons total is going to yield a very very subtle effect in the final product.
     
  17. TastyAdventure

    TastyAdventure Initiate (0) Nov 13, 2012 Kentucky

    Thanks homebrew42. Now I know not to hesitate with boiling it waaay down.
     
  18. inchrisin

    inchrisin Pooh-Bah (2,013) Sep 25, 2008 Indiana
    Pooh-Bah

    You can always add water back in if it gets too thick. You won't though. Get a rubber scraper and get all the good stuff out. :slight_smile:
     
  19. bgjohnston

    bgjohnston Initiate (0) Jan 14, 2009 Connecticut

    Just ladle some of the wort out of the kettle into the boil-down pot to swish out all of the sugary goodness. I have followed the Traquair homebrew recipe a couple of times every year, as it makes a tasty beer that always disappears fast at parties.
     
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