WeldWerks Juicy Bits Clone (NEIPA)

Depends how much you squeeze the bag. 0.12 could be closer to the natural absorption rate without squeezing. I don't think there is single right number. For my process of squeezing the bag hard, 0.08 is a good estimate. If I used 0.12, I'd end up with more than a half gallon of extra, more dilute, wort. I've seen estimates between 0.04 and 0.20. Everyone's system is different.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=469935

 

Ah, BIAB. OK.

 

Wtf does any of this have to do with juicy bits?

 

Brewed this a couple weeks ago and just getting the first taste. I've never had the actual juicy bits to compare it to, but I'm really enjoying this recipe.

 

That's beautiful

 

Thanks!

I should also mention a couple modifications I did on this recipe. I did not use the London Ale Yeast. I went with: Omega's Tropical IPA Yeast

I also did 1oz of hops of each for 8 days for dry hopping and still did the recommended 1oz each for 4 days.

First time using that Omega yeast and it tore thru the sugar and finished up at 1.004. Way lower than I thought, which resulted in a way higher abv than anticipated at: 9.2%.

 

How would you describe the body/mouthfeel of your beer?

Cheers!

 

I plan on doing four dry hop additions spread out over 12 days of contact time. Should be gonzo.

 

I've used a different source of sacch trois for a couple beers now - I was wondering what your experience was like regarding fermentation time with the Omega culture.

In my experience, this yeast takes a bit longer than most to fully ferment. For example, the most recent pale ale I brewed with the yeast had an OG of 1.064 - after a week (when I usually expect that gravity of beer to be ready for a cold crash) it was only at 1.022. Took another week to get sub 1.010.

 

It has a very nice silky/soft mouthfeel. Body is not on the thin side, I would say it is right in the middle. A little drying at the end, not as much as initially thought when I saw the finished gravity.

Sounds great! How many ounces total are you going to end up with?

I brewed this on 12/31 and a week later on 1/7 the gravity was down to 1.006. Did not expect that fall that quick at all. When I kegged it on 1/15 it was 1.004.

I pitched a 1L starter of this yeast and fermented at 76 for the first two days then bumped up to 80 for the remainder. Temp range for Omegas sacch troisnyeast is 75-85.

 

That is intriguing. I have never had a beer with a FG of 1.004 that didn't have a thin body.

Thanks for that input.

Cheers!

 

That color though....man that looks good...

Think I got my fam talked into trying this recipe for our next brew....Excited to see what happens....

 

One oz of each hop, first dryhop at day three, the second on day five, the third on day seven, and the fourth on day nine.

 

I was fermenting at 67 and then ramped to 72ish after a week, perhaps that's why my ferment went to slowly. Also, this was stepped up from the WLP brett cell count, so perhaps I underpitched a little bit.

I'll give Omega's culture a shot next time and think about fermenting a little higher.

 

Do you notice this having a big effect on your beers flavor/aroma doing it this way?

 

I have not done four additions before. This is new for me but roughly based off a suggestion from @Tarheel4985 . Since it's his beer I figured he would know best.

 

OK, the ppm thing is killing me ... let's assume 1 gallon of RO water, how many grams of chloride does one need to achieve 200 ppm? What is the formula assuming a blank slate like RO or distilled water?

 

@ultravista
Here's a table that shows the contributions in ppm for 1 gram per gallon of water of the minerals I use. These numbers are from the book "Water" by Palmer and Kaminski. They are within a few tenths of a ppm to what Bru'n Water uses. There are many other minerals available but I keep it simple and these are enough for NE IPA profiles. I also don't bother with bicarbonate. I'm not saying that's good practice because it's probably not, but that's just what I do.

What this table says is if I add 1 gram of Gypsum to 1 gallon of water, I will be adding 61.5ppm Ca and 147.4ppm Sulfate. If I add 1 gram to 2 gallons of water, I will be adding 61.5/2 or 30.75ppm Ca and 147.4/2 or 73.7ppm Sulfate. If I add 2 grams to 2 gallons of water, I will be back to my 61.5 Ca and 147.4 Sulfate.

So let's say I want to mash with distilled or RO water (assuming both of these have essentially no minerals) and I want my profile to be:
Ca: 100
Sulfate: 100
Mg: 20
Na: 25
Cl: 200
In order to get 200ppm chloride, I need to have some combination of CaCl2 and NaCl to get me there. Of these 4 minerals, only NaCl has Na so I start there. I want 25ppm but a single gram has 103.9ppm so my contribution per gallon is 25/103.9 = 0.241grams per gallon. This will be true regardless of how many gallons I want.

So with 0.241grams of NaCl per gallon, I am also getting 0.241*160.3 = 38.57ppm of Cl. So that means I need to get the remaining 161.43ppm (200-38.57) from CaCl2. So I need to figure out how many grams of CaCl2 will give me 161.43. X / 127.4 = 161.43 -> X = 161.43/127.4 = 1.267grams CaCl2 per gallon. Again, this is true regardless of the number of gallons I want.

If you continue to solve for Ca, Sulfate and Mg, you get the following grams per gallon for each mineral:
Canning Salt (NaCl): 0.241
CaCl2: 1.267
Gypsum: 0.143
Epsom Salt: 0.768

If I want to use 8.5 gallons in the mash, I multiply each of these amounts by 8.5 so I get:
NaCl: 2.045
CaCl2: 10.770
CaSO4: 1.212
MgSO4: 6.524
These are the amounts of each mineral in grams I need to achieve my profile.

In this method, the Mg value is dependent on the other numbers. I go from Na to Cl to Ca to SO4 and then check to make sure my Mg if within reason. If it's too high, I can always adjust the Na and recalculate. My main focus is on Ca, Cl and SO4 and then I fluctuate the Na and Mg numbers in order to get everything to balance. Palmer recommends a max Mg of 40 and a max Na of 100 so there's plenty of wiggle room for those 2 mineral ppm values.

 

hazegenius - Thank you for the excellent write-up. This helps put things into perspective for me.

Is this your go-to water adjustment profile for a soft and juicy NEIPA?

 

I've never done a FWH, so I'm curious, after steeping the hops, do you remove them before the boil or just leave them in?