What's brewing August edition

Would very much like to hear your recipe and the rest of your technique on this beer.

 

I usually add it during the mash, during a short secondary, and at packaging. Fun ingredient.

 

There is a 25 page on another forum where homebrewers talk about stuff. Googling "raw ale no boil" puts the link second on my page.

It worked out well and saved 1.5 hours on brewday. The mouthfeel and head retention is excellent. The last thing I'm looking for is the stability of the beer and haze over the next 4 weeks.

My understanding is there are 3 primary reasons to boil:
1. Sanitize
2. Getting bitterness from hops
3. Boiling off DMS off flavors.

BUT..
1. Pasteurization occurs at 161F for 15 seconds, so a 60 minute boil is overkill
2. In a NEIPA, I add no hops during boil.
3. DMS flavors start to form when wort temp goes above 175F

So I hit that 168F temp to pasteurize, but don't let it get hot enough to form DMS flavors.

Process:
70 min mash at 154F
Heat 6.5 gallons wort to 168F
Whirlpool 4oz hops for 20 mins, it naturally cooled to about 155F during this.
Whirlpool another 4oz hops for 20 mins.
Cool to 70F
Pitch London 3, ferment at 70F
Dryhop 3oz 24 hours after pitching yeast starter
Dryhop 3oz 4 days before kegging
Dryhop 2oz in keg.

The recipe is typical NEIPA:
64% 2 row
21% Thomas fawcett oat malt
7% flaked oats
4% honey malt
4% acidulated malt
16oz hops (8oz citra, 8oz mosaic for this one)
Wyeast 1318

 

I'd include coagulation of proteins and concentration of wort to that as well, but the first two are certainly the most important, with the second being number one by far.

Not to get into a DMS discussion here, but with modern malts SMM conversion to DMS happens quite slowly below 95C, while DMS volatility remains high between 50C and 100C, so any DMS that might be created will be volatilized rather quickly.

 

Thanks for the reference . . .

. . . and the recipe.

 

just curious, how do you personally keep the dry hops from clogging up the dip tube or poppits of the keg? are you putting all dry hops in bags/screens, using filter screens over the dip tube, cutting the dip tube, etc?

 

Yes to all three.
I suspend the tube so about half way through the keg the hops are no longer in contact

 

ok, sorry hopefully last questions for now... do you do anything to minimize oxygen when transferring from fermenter to keg? Aside from purging the keg with CO2? How are you cold crashing?

 

I ferment in a plastic bucket in a mini fridge with a heat belt around it hooked up to an inkbird temp controller. After about 8 days of fermenting, I set it to 40F... but my mini fridge is a little old and only gets it down to 44F for two days in the primary fermentor for cold crashing.

Then I transfer to a purged keg with an autosiphon. I'm still trying to find a way to do a closed transfer, but I haven't noticed any oxygenation issues within the first 6 weeks of my NEIPAs.

The keg goes in a fridge that is 42F, so a little more cold crashing occurs... but I've got the dip tube cut a bit and the mesh around the diptube. So I don't notice any issue with it.

 

Been a pretty busy and fun brew month so far! Got myself immersed in a big thread on another homebrewing site that revolves around yeast(s) being used by Treehouse for their NEIPAs.

I made a 0.5BBL batch of my standard NEIPA base wort recipe and used Citra/Mosaic hops.

Then, I split it into 3 fermenters and did the following:

FV#1: Used WY1318. Pitched from a starter at standard ~0.75M cells/ml/*P This was ferm-hopped at day 3. Then was transferred to a keg and was slowly force-carbed. Added keg hops.

FV#2: Same as above transferred to a keg when fermentation was complete. Added keg hops and naturally carbing/conditioning with CBC-1.

FV#3: Did an initial pitch of S-04 and T-58. Added some WB-06 with ferm hops after ~2.5days. Transferred to a keg when fermentation was complete. Added keg hops and naturally carbing/conditioning with CBC-1.

Looking forward to next week when I plan to do a side-by-side-by-side comparison of all 3 batches!!!

 

You mean the bag of hops...not the tube, right?

 

Wow! That would be fun

 

Sorry... just realized I used "tube" in two ways. I use this tube with lid for keg dry hop:
http://www.homebrewing.org/400-Micron-Hop-Filter-with-Lid_p_7113.html

And this tube around the diptube:
http://www.homebrewing.org/Corny-Ke...MIopi-0_3_1QIVCpBpCh2UYgQIEAQYASABEgI29fD_BwE

 

I kegged up my 10 gallons of Red IPA tonight. Half got Simcoe, Citra, Nugget, and CTZ pellets. The other half got freshly picked and dried Columbus, Centennial, Cascade, and Chinook. Added my Biofine, and set at 30 psi to carb it up by tomorrow. Really looking forward to drinking this beer next week.



Also cleaned all my keg lines, 5 kegs, and added my Nectarine Blossom yeast to a Gose I brewed on Monday night. Down to 3.5 pH and should drop a few more as the Lacto is still active.

 

Yes, OK, the 400 Micron screen "tube" is basically a high priced fine mesh hop bag (2" X 24") :
http://www.thebeveragepeople.com/nylon-hop-bag-or-chip-bag-2-x-24-fine-mesh-details.html

The other "dip tube screen" is pretty much unusable (by their own admission)

 

Squeezing in an extract table saison today.

 

August has been BUSY! Made a Citra IPA, came out great my best IPA to date. A couple of weeks ago I brewed a Chinook IPA which will be kegged and dry hopped this weekend. Yeast starter going now for Black IPA I'm brewing this weekend. I usually like to mix up my styles but that damn IPA day sale at Northern Brewer got me good!

 

From turning on the faucet to putting away cleaned equipment, this took 4 hours today. I highly recommend trying an extract brew here and there for brewers that have moved on to all-grain. Even though it costs twice as much, if you value your time and just want to get an easy drinker on, extract is the way to go.

 

Agreed. With beers that don't focus on malt complexity, extract is a great tool to use if you want to conserve time.

 

I do this once a year for Teach A Friend to Brew Day