Wlp-002 and fermentation temps

When I was brewing alot this was my house strain. I usually start 66-68F then after 2 days let it rise to 70F and keep it there to finish out, even letting it get to 72 once the bulk of fermentation was finished.
Whatever you do dont cool this strain if you want it to attenuate. It is a low attenuator but you can trick it with low mash temps and few percent sugar.

I should mention I used the wyeast equivalent 1968.

 

I like Nicefly's approach with this. The last time I use 1968, I was a few degrees lower than he suggests. I had a touch of diacetyl that I got rid of by elevating the temps a few degrees after transferring to the keg. The transfer probably help rouse the yeast, who probably appreciated my boosting the temps to 70.

 

I like 002/1968 a lot and have brewed with it many times. For my tastes, it is much better at the low end of its spectrum, ie 64-66F. I have sometimes let the temp rise to about 72F at the very end of fermentation just to ensure full attenuation and diacetyl clean-up, but if you pitch at that temp you will likely get more fruitiness than you want, at the very least, and possible some diacetyl.

 

I have brewed with the Wyeast equivalent of 1968 a few times but that was a long time ago (over 10 years ago). I purposefully fermented warm (e.g., 70°F) to obtain some character (esters) and to encourage complete fermentation. That strain has a reputation of being very flocculent and the yeast could settle out before getting the job done. One of the ‘hints’ for using this yeast was to gently swirl the fermenter to aid in keeping the yeast active (in suspension) during the ferment. The yeast performed OK; I thought the resulting beers were good. I was not absolutely thrilled with my beers (Bitter Ales) using this yeast and the potential of premature flocculation was not to my personal liking. I stopped using this yeast and used other English Ale strains instead.

Below is Wyeast’s description for 1968.

Cheers!

YEAST STRAIN: 1968 | London ESB Ale™

A very good cask conditioned ale strain, this extremely flocculant yeast produces distinctly malty beers. Attenuation levels are typically less than most other yeast strains which results in a slightly sweeter finish. Ales produced with this strain tend to be fruity, increasingly so with higher fermentation temperatures of 70-74°F (21-23° C). A thorough diacetyl rest is recommended after fermentation is complete. Bright beers are easily achieved within days without any filtration.

Origin:

Flocculation: Very High

Attenuation: 67-71%

Temperature Range: 64-72F, 18-22C

Alcohol Tolerance: 9% ABV

 

Why do you think you would get diacetyl at the higher temp? My understanding is that yeast would likely be more active and clean up at higher temps.

 

Diacetyl production and reduction are both higher at elevated temps; generally warmer is better for the final product as far as diacetyl is concerned, but the usual ale procedure of starting cool and warming things up after a few days will produce the best results overall, and probably re: diacetyl as well.

 

Well, what pweis said, plus some personal experience. When I first started and didn't have the ability to control temps, I got some diacetyl with 1968 and some other yeasts. Since acquiring the ability to control temps, I haven't had the problem.

 

“…I got some diacetyl with 1968 and some other yeasts.”

The yeast that is legendary for resulting in perceptible diacetyl in beer is the Ringwood strain (i.e., Wyeast 1187). The attribute that 1187 has in common with 1968 is high flocculation. These strains have the potential to settle out at the end of primary fermentation prior to cleaning up the diacetyl they produced earlier in the fermentation. The principle way to handle this situation is to conduct a diacetyl rest at the end of fermentation (raise the temperature a few degrees higher) to encourage the yeast to not settle out and thereby process the excess diacetyl.

When I used 1968 I also used the rouse method: gently swirling the fermenter to keep the yeast ‘active’.

My personal preference in my homebrewing is simply no longer use 1968 and I have never used 1187. Lots of other good ale yeasts out there.

Cheers!

 

[QUOTE="JackHorzempa, post: 2721934, member: 55094
My personal preference in my homebrewing is simply no longer use 1968 and I have never used 1187. Lots of other good ale yeasts out there.

Cheers![/QUOTE]

Don't go bad-mouthing 1968, now. That's the house yeast for Lagunitas and, of course, Fullers, to name just two. Managed correctly, it has a wonderful ester profile and mouthfeel that work well with a wide range of styles. But I would agree that if you're not in position to manage your fermentation temps carefully, you're probably better off with another yeast.

 

Don't go bad-mouthing 1968, now. That's the house yeast for Lagunitas and, of course, Fullers, to name just two. Managed correctly, it has a wonderful ester profile and mouthfeel that work well with a wide range of styles. But I would agree that if you're not in position to manage your fermentation temps carefully, you're probably better off with another yeast.[/QUOTE]

I have a local brewpub that I frequent regularly. I got to know the brewer pretty well. After several years of conversation he mentioned that the house ale yeast is 1187. I was shocked! I exclaimed: But I have never tasted diacetyl. He wryly responded: We give the ales adequate time to process the diacetyl. They like 1187 because it drops bright.

Yup, both 1968 and 1187 can make high quality beer if they are handled properly. Having stated that, there are lots of other ale yeast strains that make excellent beers with no fuss and no worry.

Time for my old saying? Brew the beers you like and brew them the way you like.

Cheers!