Working on my brewhouse efficiency

I got only 62% brewhouse efficiency on my last 2 batches. I want 70-75%. There is copious information on the internet and in my How to Brew book, but maybe someone will give some pointers.

A few factors:

1) I am a new all-grain BIAB brewer
2) I use tap water, which tastes great and is commonly used for brewing, even by commercial brewers where I live. I have not begun to measure or alter my water profile yet. However, the pH, as stated in the water report, is an average of 9.3. Does this pH come down when you add the grains? CaCO3 is average of 45. Could I simply used acid malt?
3) Sparge method. I realized that my 65F sparge water is costing my efficiency, and I was rushing the process. I did the old raise the grains trick, drain it, and sparge with the some light squeezing (tannins have not been any issue). I use limited supplies in a small brew room. After removing the grains from the mash, can I simply place the grains in 170F water for about 20 mins in a separate kettle, and do it twice? The I would add that back to the wort for the boil.
4) Water to grist ratio. I was making a mistake and mashing with about 1.25 qts /pound. Will it really help if I raise the ratio to 2:1?

I am making great beer recently. But I hope that if I make all these changes for my next brew, I can hit 70%. I want to give more effort and time to make better beer and, separately, achieve a higher brewhouse efficiency. It's a hobby and that's what it's about for me. I realize that I was using smaller volumes of liquid so it would heat and cool faster. Also, I lacked the knowledge.

Please let me know if I'm on the right track.
THANK YOU!

 

Well, running the numbers through the brewer's friend calculator, the mash pH does appear to come down to 5.4-5.6 depending on the grist. That's pretty good. I could adjust (add) some of the ions.

 

Thank you. I was thinking that too. I would need a mill then. The supplier mills the grains for me, and for everyone, so I suppose they are tailoring to the 3-vessel AG brewers who don't need as fine of a crush.
I might get scorned for this idea, but since I already have the crushed/milled grain on board, maybe I could throw my next grist (only about 3 lbs for a 4L fermenter volume) into a blender, just as a test.

 

Thank you for taking that from your archives and posting it here, VikeMan. Those items that would apply to me are: the crush; sparge method; Mash pH. I gotta work on these.
As it stands now, I have basically zero wort loss.

 

Thank you, OldBrewer! I really appreciate all the help, guys! I do have to correct myself by saying that I DO have some wort loss through the wet grains... and by sipping throughout.

I'm brewing an Irish Stout today and will be making the following improvements (optimistically):
1) Further fine the milled grains to simulate a tighter crush. I have big hopes for this.

2) Mash with more water (1.67 qts/lb vs 1.5.). This may be negligible.

3) Use an estimated mash pH of 5.40 as according to Brewer's Friend. No real changes here, just added some gypsum based on my local water report.

4) Gently and quietly stir the grains halfway through.

5) Do a more thorough sparge at a more appropriate temperature (170F). Brulosophy did measure a higher OG after a 170F sparge vs "room" temp, which was uniquely an objective finding for them. I have great hopes for this, too.

I'll mash at about 146F for 90 mins and will report back later.

 

I'm in awe! The brewhouse efficiency is looking to be right about 82% on this recipe. The boil is not over yet, so it's an estimate, but it's been quite consistent as the volume decreases in the kettle. I've been using the Brewer's Friend OG calc, a trusty hydrometer, and a kettle with precise measurements. I'll keep going with what I learned. Thanks everybody!.

 

VikeMan, you're right, I see what you're saying. It really is only a mash efficiency at this point but since I expect no other losses (I pour the wort directly from the kettle through a filter into the fermenter and hardly lose any), I called it brewhouse efficiency. With that said, the title of the thread and my term should concern mash efficiency only. And yes, I couldn't really believe it so a I took a second gravity reading later on.

HerbMeowing, thanks. I ended up doing two 10-minute sparges in a separate kettle and I did treat the fresh water like a strike temp by aiming for the resulting 170F. I would have considered a third run but my pre-boil volume was too high. How did you realize that 3-5 mins was enough? Took some readings? Thanks for the guidance!