Yay, my second batch isn't disgusting!

keep clean and keep detailed notes including tasting notes both good and bad. batch 3-∞ will be better

 

Nice bass.

And congrats. It gets easier after you get some basic temp control going, get more comfortable with yeast care like making starters and rehydrating.

 

Congrats on the improvement. I have to wonder, though, if your choice of recipe may be part of the problem here. If your expectations were to experience a taste that is close to a bourbon barrel-aged beer, then that could be why you are somewhat disappointed. IMO, trying to 'manufacture' bourbon barrel notes into your beer just can't be done without a real bourbon barrel. Keep on plugging away at trying new recipes, though, and you'll soon get a beer that you really like.

Disclaimer: I have not brewed that recipe, so I can't speak with real authority about how good/bad that kit might be.

 

I gotta agree with the @Mothergoose03 here. A bourbon barrel beer for a second batch ever may have been a bit like trying to learn G flat mixolydian rather than making sure you've got straight up C major down pat.

 

Probably most homebrews will improve in flavor with a little extra conditioning time in the bottle, so don't give up on it yet.

 

I remember my first batch (12 years ago) was decent, second was okay, but third was horrible. Turns out I didn't clean and sanitize well enough, so pay close attention to that!

Also, in my experience, extract batches seem to lack that extra panache and identity that a full grain batch can provide. It's easy enough to do a full grain 1 gal batch.

 

Congrats! Keep at it!

 

A steady temperature of 65 is better than a 12 degree swing. Wait one more week and your beer will likely taste better than it does today. Dark beers are better with age. Save a couple of them for a few months. Drink the rest and observe how they change over time.

I bottle and keg. My bottled beers generally taste subjectively better after 3 weeks in the bottle than 2 regardless of style.

 

A carboy (either plastic or glass) is better at keeping oxygen out of your beer than a bucket is. However, the difference is negligible unless you are aging the beer in the fermenter for an extended period of time. If all you are doing is a primary fermentation, plus maybe a little extra time for dry-hopping or oak or whatever, then a bucket is probably fine. Buckets have some advantages to make up for their opacity and oxygen permeability (for instance, it is much easier to add fruit to a bucket than to a standard carboy - the BigMouth Bubbler is intended to strike a balance between the two).

If you decide to get a carboy, then my personal recommendation would be to get a BetterBottle. BetterBottles are light-weight and pretty much unbreakable. Their oxygen permeability is low enough that they are suitable for just about any application, even long-term aging. I have never found my BetterBottles to be difficult to clean. In fact, I've never even had to use a brush to clean them - I just give them a good soak with PBW. On one occasion, I've been forced to give a carboy a second PBW soak to get it clean. After the PBW soak I just rinse thoroughly, including a finishing rinse with something acidic (water + vinegar, or StarSan if I have some lying around), and I'm good to go (of course I re-sanitize on brew day).

The problem with glass is that it is heavy, it is breakable, and it is dangerous when broken. I regret ever buying any glass carboys, and mine are gathering dust while I pretty much exclusively use BetterBottles.

In terms of size, I am very conservative and always leave quite a bit of headspace in a primary fermentation. This is particularly important for certain styles, such as hefeweizen, that foam up vigorously during fermentation. I think you would be fairly safe brewing 5-gallon batches in 6.5-gallon carboys, but I don't really know. I have never had any problem fermenting a 3 or 3.5-gallon batch in a 5-gallon carboy.

 

You can ferment a 5-gallon batch in a 6.5 gal. carboy, but the only caution is to use a blow-off tube if the OG is above 1.070. A normal air lock is usually okay below that 1.070 mark. If you are brewing 3-gallon batches, then a 5-gallon carboy should be okay, but it's always a good move to use a blow-off tube for the high gravity beers.

 

This is conventional wisdom which I also subscribe to. So I put 5.1 gallons of 1.053 wort in a 6.5 gal bucket last night and woke up to this:

But I do not consider this a problem. Less than five minutes with a mop, then same to sanitize a blow off tube and I'm now top-cropping yeast. Will repeat again next brew-day without blow-off tube and just keep an eye on it.

I say don't over think this one. Buckets are simple/cheap/light/easy . . . some drawbacks are potential cleanliness and opaqueness. If you intend to age then maybe glass or BB will tip the scale . . . nothing wrong with having a mix of plastic and glass. Also, a keg works well for dh'ing/aging.

 

Two weeks in the bottle is way too soon. Needs another four to six weeks for the flavors to mature.

 

Life if the fast lane . . . the tiny gauge is actually reading 73 which is right on target for WLP550(3522). Using a thermowell gives accurate wort temps, but I would not put my controller's probe in here. This will guarantee at least ±1° swing. IMO the wort temp swing can be kept lower by measuring the surrounding air temp and having a higher differential. Then use the thermowell probe to monitor.

But don't be afraid of a little blow-off in a 6.5 gal primary, easy to handle and the robust fermentation puts the brew-crew in a good mood. Aside: my yeast starter had a mini blow-off last night . . . again, no problem and everyone (especially the yeast) is happy.