Eighteen years ago, Al Marzi was hauling kegs for Harpoon. Now, he’s the guy filling those kegs. He’s in charge of two breweries, in Boston and Windsor, Vt. He’s nurturing regional flagship brands and springing one-offs on an expectant populace.
A well-made Dark Lager goes down as easily as a crystal-clear Pilsner, but it’s hardly delicate or flowery.