Black Shadow
Karlsson Brewing

Somehow I just wasn't expecting a black lager or schwarzbier from this Scandinavian-themed brewpub in eastern Multnomah County. The only other regionally produced schwarzbiers that come to mind are from Baron Brewing and perhaps Methow, both in Washington. Though Rogue must surely have one, I can't immediately think of any others in Oregon. It's not a style you encounter too often among Northwest craft brewers.

At first whiff, I thought Black Shadow smelled like a porter. The characteristics of dark roasted grains were evident in abundance. But the taste is decidedly schwarzy. An upfront sweetness balances nicely with roasted barley elements. The bittering, too, is engaging. But mostly it's the roast that complements the sweet. It's like a liquefied version of molasses on pumpernickel.

They serve Black Shadow at lager temperatures in a chilled pint glass. But I let the beer warm a bit, and as it does, a light brown sugar sweetness enhances the aroma. In the dim light of the bar Black Shadow appears near totally black with just a few gleans of ruby if held to the light.

Very nice and somewhat unexpected.