ESB 6
Deans Brothers Brewing Co.

 

22 oz. bottle purchased from Hi Time Cellars in Costa Mesa. Enjoyed in a nonic pint glass.

Note: I purchased 2 bottles of this beer from Hi Time, and there were significant differences between them. I don't know if this is a quality control issue, or if one bottle was just that much fresher than the other. This review is for the better/fresher of the two bottles.

Appearance:
A rich, clear orange brown with amber highlights. There's a one-finger tall head of creamy, sand-colored foam on top. The foam clings to the glass when you tilt the pint, but it does not linger.

Smell:
A fine balance of malt, fruit, and hop aromas. The malt is sweet but not cloying, with a bready and nutty character tinged with caramel. The fruit aromas are crisp and juicy, like a cold red apple. There is also a floral, honeyed component which creates a fine connection between the fruit and malt notes. The hops are woody and earthy, and provide a robust counterpoint to the malt and fruit.

Taste:
Balance, once again, is the main feature. An initial wave of malty sweetness with a hint of toffee and tobacco is tempered by juicy fruit and a firm bitterness. More fruit notes emerge in the middle-- apples, underripe pear, and some orange oil. Earthy hops lead to a graceful finish with minerals and a light tea-like astringency. Bitterness lingers and dries the mouth in preparation for the next sip.

Mouthfeel:
Medium-bodied and soft, though the carbonation feels a bit strong, and adds some coarseness to the body.

Drinkability:
This is a well-constructed English ESB. The appearance and aroma are faithful to the style, and the balance of bready, nutty malt to the complex hop flavors is very well done. The texture of the Deans Bros. version is a bit more coarse, but that is a small distraction. Oddly enough, the flavors aren't as strong as Fuller's ESB, but the alcohol content is slightly higher.

Caveat:
As I noted at the beginning, I have noted great disparity between bottles that were purchased at the same time. I have also noted that the flavor of the beer can change significantly over the life of a keg (as sampled at the Verdugo Bar and Beachwood BBQ). This beer CAN be a superb example of an ESB, but it is not always so. I cannot say whether this is a freshness issue or a quality control problem.

Consumed 07/05/08 at Verdugo Bar, Los Angeles, CA.

Clear golden honey colored pour into a pint glass. A few tiny bubbles rise here and there throughout the beer. Less than a one finger white head becomes a sticky ring of frothy lacing.

A wet, fruity aroma: think of a crisp red apple bursting with juice.

A bit like a Bass Ale (I know, it's a different style, but the flavors have some things in common). A little wetter than a Bass: again, think juicy apples. Some butterscotch, which can be a flaw in beer, but it works here. A slight metallic tang on the aftertaste. No appreciable bitterness or hop character.

A light, sessionable beer but not one I crave.