Abalus Amber
Wolverine State Brewing Company

 

 

 

 

 

On tap at Wolverine State Brewing Company in Ann Arbor. It pours a brown and copper color, so hazy that it appears to be almost completely opaque, kind of unexpected for a lager, right? Maybe it's because the bar is so dimly lit. The soft beige head is made of fine microbubbles and lasts as a thin skin down the entire glass. A couple spots of wet lacing are left behind.

One of the problems I have with hopped up lagers is that they often hide or mask what makes a lager and "lager". Not so much the case here - the first thing I notice in the aroma is the heavy, crisp, lager yeast with just a nice touch of DMS. Refreshing to see this idea of a super-hoppy lager done in a way that still pays hommage to the wonder of lagering yeast.

That's not to say that the hops aren't there, though, because they certainly are; grassy and herbal hops, along with a light citrus splash that unfold over a blanket of fresh malts. Toasted bread and light caramel with a soft, underlying, sweetness. From the smell alone, this one seems to have a pretty good balance.

The first sip is lined with smooth caramel and toasted, biscuity malts. Hints of citrus, grapefruit peel, and lemon zest come bursting through in small, yet notable doses. Juicy hops come up shortly after, leafy and borderline-pungent with a tongue scratching, back-end bitterness. The finish is beautifully dry and crisp, super-clean, thanks again to the lagered yeast. Light bodied, carbonated well, and refreshingly dry.

Though I love many of the "hopped up lagers" I've had in the past, I was loving them simply because I love hoppy beers. But that new and upcoming style tends to overshadow what it has set out to expand: the lager itself. I feel that this beer, however, was executed very nicely; it exploited the beauty of American hops while still retaining the best qualities of the yeast and malts that are common in Amber lagers. Bravo.