Coolship Proxima
Allagash Brewing Company

Bottled 1/22/20, drank 3/25/25. Spectacular in every way.

Using a Zalto Flute Glass, fine carbonation sparkle as they rise within the gem clear, golden amber beer. The head is fluffy and white, slowly settling to a thick blanket over the course of several minutes. Each sip is followed by a film that gradually pulls down patches of lace. Once the last couple ounces are added, a cloud of yeast fills the glass.

Oak fills the nose, dominating the first few seconds, eventually conceding some room for lemon and funky yeast. Warmth brings an appearance from leather and cider vinegar, more secondary than casual. The sum effect is that of a wet forest, after the rain, earthy with mushrooms. The added yeast tames the oak while electrifying the fruit. After substantial warmth, the rum becomes apparent.

Tartness is pleasant, with light sourness while an afterthought of mild bittersweetness rounds it out. The oak is loud against the acidity, with orchard fruit of apple and pear lending and Autumnal earthiness. It tastes like Autum. The finish is long and dry, enveloping the mouth and lips. Warmth adds lime and crisp white wine. Again, very late in the session the rum makes a cameo appearance. The yeast addition increases the bitterness and the lemon, and oddly the rum as well, while mellowing the acidity and tartness.

Alcohol is milder than anticipated, yet oddly feels right. It is very dry with the texture of finely woven wool and a light to medium body. A slight astringency is evident in the dryness.

This beer is elegant in its wildness, and simply exquisitely done. It is a reminder of how complex and refined beer can be, as it exudes Gilded Age opulence and an Art Nouveau refinement.

Bottled 1/22/20

It’s been a bit since I’ve dug into any of the bottles I picked up at Allagash a few months back, but it’s time to get back into it. I’m trying to savor them but this one was calling my name tonight. Rum, rye, and fresh oak barrels sounds like quite a blend. Let’s pop this bad boy open

Pours a cloudy pale gold with 2 fingers of white head that slowly fades to a ring and leaves minimal lacing

The nose is funky for sure, but the rum sweetness comes on strong. I’m picking up on aromas of lemon zest, apple skin, sweet rum, toasted oak, burnt caramel, white wine vinegar, sweet honey, and pear

It’s more abrasive in taste up front which I actually appreciate, but it is a bit sweet on the back end which I don’t exactly love. On the front end of the sip I’m tasting lemon juice, white wine vinegar, sharp oak, apple skin, pear, toffee, pineapple juice, light grass, and stone. The swallow brings notes of apple skin, dry oak, sweet rum, stone, pineapple juice, white grape, toffee, wet hay, and light cracker

A medium body pairs with moderate carbonation, resulting in a sharp and slick beer. Finishes somewhat sticky but dries out over time

This one isn’t my favorite, but it’s still fun. It may be just a tad heavy handed on the rum component but it’s fine

 

 

A huge genuine thank you to jrc1093 for this one. Nearly missed it.

375ml corked and caged bottle - bottled January 22. 2020 - poured into a wine stem at 50°F.

Cork releases with a percussive pop, and the ale pours a deep honey golden - absolutely crystal clear, and topped woth a finger of off-white head with remarkable retention, thanks to the constant rising effervescence. Very pretty.

Nose: Very classic Allagash Coolship, with bright lemony acidity and true Gueuze-like funk atop a clean base of crackery toasted wheat and barley. Notes of lemon, apple cider vinegar, hay, dusty stable, leather, wet leaves, petrichor, sea shells, with bright fruity notes of green apple, pear, and gooseberry, surrounded by a firm halo of damp white oak.

Palate: Proxima greets the palate with a defined wheaty and cereal sweetness. The acidity is bright abd tart, but remarkably balanced. The funk is absolutely explosive. Super deep, wild, and complex coolship notes that are very hard to describe. There's creamy lemon curd, white grapes with some noble rot, wild honey, apricot jam, wet stone, wet hay, papaya, and melon. There's even this odd little caramel note that comes out of nowhere. Some allspice, black pepper, and spicy phenols. Like most Coolships, there's this biting bitterness that seeps in - presumably from the aged hops, but it really reminds me of Cantillon. Resibous, earthy, and firm. The finish sees the tartness disappear, the sweetness reduce, and it lingers with toasted oak, bitter grass, sultana, and wheat.

Mouthfeel/Body: In a word? Perfect. The ale is medium/light in body, with a crisp, snappy high end, and some soft malt weight on the low end. The effervescence is just insane. As lively and fizzy as the most lively champagne, with tiny little quark-sized bubbles, never scratching the throat. Leaves the palate coated with an oily, waxy cling.

Overall: This is stunning. I've not had anything outside of Cantillon or Drie Fonteinen that has approached this. This is up there with Cantillon Iris - less tart, without the hops, and a bit tighter. It's every bit a Gueuze as Cantillon, and looking past the lack of rum or rye barrel influence, this exceeds all expectations. A beautiful American Gueuze with near-flawless execution. If you can, try this one.