Farmhouse Ale With Lemon Verbena & Shiso
Ørkenoy

Pours a hazy, cloudy murky orange-yellow color. Nice full sudsy three finger head forms initially, but then steadily dissipates until a thin layer of foam remains on the beer. Lots of sticky white lacing remains on the glass as the beer is consumed. The aroma is really interesting - its got some notes of grain, spicy peppery yeast, light lemon and mint notes come through with this overall bright herbaceous, green aroma. Its like being in the herd aisle at the garden center in the spring with all the young fresh herbs giving off their lovely aroma. The interplay of the mint and the spicy pepper notes from the yeast produce this really bright aroma that open up the nostrils.

Taste follows the nose with notes of cereal grains, some spicy peppery yeast, white peppercorns, mint, lemon balm, and some green tea. Its got a lot of really nice subtle flavors that blend together so well in this. The flavors are light, airy, and bright. Feel is light, smooth, and semidry on the finish. Mild carbonation - almost bordering on under-carbonated.

Overall a really nice farmhouse ale from Ørkenoy.

This lower gluten ale does not taste like a low-gluten ale. Buckwheat (not a real wheat grain) is increasingly being used to reduce gluten. While the mouthfeel is lighter than barley/wheat, buckwheat's real problem is the ales tend to have not much character which, in turn, often leads to a shortcut of piling in too many hops.

In my intentionally limited exposure to this problem, I'm thinking Orkenoy has solved it because it has a kitchen and thinks thoughtfully and knows how to use other herbs and seasonings while keeping hops modest. Mr Sparkles uses shiso (a common fragrance and ingredient in Asian kitchens) and lemon. Mr. Sparkles Smells and Tastes balanced because the brewer also knows how these ingredients play pleasant in the kitchen. This saison is certainly balanced in the mouth; cleansing with modest bubbles, yet never distractingly sweet or dry. A very pleasant combination for the table.

Fortunately, I bought two cans and I will have the second with dinner and report if my "theory" above is correct.
It is correct. Sparkles was particularly good with the spinach contorni sautéed in garlic. A lesser pairing with pasta and red sauce, but still an interesting interplay.

This is my first Orkenoy, but certainly not my last. I ride by there at least twice a week on the 606, but never stopped by because I thought it was a mere bar. Now, I'm hoping it turns out to be gastropub par excellence. After surveying its menu, it might be. But even if Orkenoy is just good, it is a very welcome find. Cool website and surroundings in a neighborhood arts center. I also like how the drafts went into my two cans and they were sealed at the bar. More talk to come for these folks.