Madrugada Obscura - Grand Reserve
Jolly Pumpkin Artisan Ales

 

 

Where one finds complexity another finds complication. Its exactly this tension that's created when the flavors of sourness and roast combine. Jolly Pumpkin inherently opens this can of worms when they introduce their proprietary sour strains to an imperial stout. And the plot continues to thicken with one more set of powerful flavors from bourbon barrels. Simply put: the tastebuds don't stand a chance.

Ominously dark with heavy shades of crimson, garnet and black, the daring looking potion crowns with a thin sandy necklace of froth clinging to the margins of the glass. A strong collection of spices bring not-so-subtle scent of burnt woods, soured wine, yeast spices, coffee grounds and fortified booze. Evasive sweetness skirts the tongue with a gentle blow of buckwheat honey, berry juices and wine rot.

The polarizing beer shakes off any would-be sweetness quickly and soon favors the more stout-like flavors of dark roast coffee, cocoa and chicory- all seemingly scorched. Whisky spice trends like brandy, ether and turpentine deliver a blow of bitterness, peppercorn and sourness that exacerbate each other to an offensive degree. Burnt grapes, cherries, apples, raisins and dark berries frame the fruit side of balance while the spice side trends earthen with peat, smoke, caraway, chia and tobacco.

Excessively bitter and hot, the bigness of each flavor fails to yield to the others leaving the beer with no heirarchy in taste. When everything stands out, then nothing stands out. Harsh to a nearly "shots taking" level, palate fatigue comes quickly even after a few exploratory sips. Regardless of the efforts taken, the beer isn't nearly worth the pride listed on its price tag.

 

 

Sampled on tap at the First Annual Stone Sour Fest, July 2007
This has only a dusting of a head, appears to have a very low carbonation. The beer is a chocolate to black color. This definitely smells like a stout, notes of coffee, chocolate and a rich-blackened, concentrated malty character. Underneath the dominant roast driven aromatics is a solid fruitiness of blackened plums & raisins moving towards an almost brandy or rum like note that seems to accent some oak barrel character. Dusty cocoa aromatics are noticeable in the nose as well, but this is really fruity smelling at times. In fact I get a pronounced blackberry note that is so distinct it almost seems like some of them have been added.

The taste is quite fruity up front, yet it still maintains quite a dry character overall. The fruitiness is defined by a distinct blackberry flavor that becomes tart and roasted in the middle through to the finish. The pronounced blackberry note comes through in the finish again and lingers long after the beer has left my mouth. The beer is fairly light feeling in the mouth, but it is still rich and almost chewy, which is quite good for a soured beer (or is that the color that makes me think it is rich; I don't think that is the entire story though). The blackberry note is so pronounced, I almost wonder are these actually somehow involved (what was in the barrel, hell what type of barrel was it). Oaky barrel notes are also noticeable (mostly in the finish); spicy wood notes, a touch of buttery oak, an austere tannic palate coating character. The stout flavors here are definitely noticeable, but not dominantly so; a roast acidity and a character of a smooth, first pull espresso are definitely noticed, but the Stout character is more apparent in the aroma than in the flavor.

The barrel for this beer mush have had something in it prior to this beer (Brandy, or more likely some berry like red wine). The blackberry note I have been talking about is not the dominant character here, but it adds such an intriguing accent that is just so apparent. This is very good, much better than I was expecting. I really like how rich this beer is, yet it is still quite quaffable & I really like how this beer melds all of the interesting flavor components.