First time kegger

Going to tag @billandsuz because he's often provided helpful advice in this area. I have no experience with kegging, but 6-8 psi looks low to me.

 

I know this doesn't really answer your question, but I have always preferred the set and forget method. I've never tried to force with higher psi.

I litterally just dial in the psi, adjust the temp, and wait. I use the same psi for serving. One week is usually decent, but it seems optimal after two or more. You would leave the gas on the whole time with this method. For a softer carb, you would be shooting for lower co2 volumes. You haven't mentioned temp, which is an important part of the equation.

Not sure I have a checklist per see but one tip is to have a spray bottle of sanitizer (or even just soapy water) on hand to check for leaks. I spray the posts and lid. The IN post might just need to be reset - give it a quick poke.

Here is a great thread - http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=73328

EDIT, oh and I just found this which seemed related when discussing mouthfeel - http://scottjanish.com/chasing-mouthfeel-softness/

 

As mentioned, temperature/pressure/time - you have all three variables working at once, and even then the body of the beer plays a role as well in mouthfeel. It's easiest to just set it and forget it if you can wait. Find a CO2 gassing chart somewhere (try searching Zahm-Nagel CO2 chart) and look to go for around 2.0 vol./liter based on temperature/pressure and give it a few days and work up from there if needed based on feel once it's carbed. (British cask ales are around 1.8 volumes while standard bottled carbs are more like 2.5). If time is an issue you can go higher with your initial pressure but remember that if you go over you'll have to de-gas it which will most likely hurt head retention and end up taking even longer in the long run.

 

Agreed. I believe this is the same one I've had stuck to my kegerator for years - http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o_S9tOHVf5M/T7rK96heX6I/AAAAAAAAAJI/Womlr09p1GY/s1600/chart.jpg

 

That's the ticket epk! When I had a beer fridge (unfortunately don't right now) it was set (or just ran at) @ 45˚F so gassed on your chart I'd have set my regulator to @ 12 psi and got about 2.26 volumes of CO2/liter which worked fine for all of my beers (mainly English style), and which I would think would be fine for a NE IPA.

Initially it might have been a bit softer as it was still picking up CO2 but I'd drink it anyway; and if it sat for too long it would get a little bit over-carbed as well. Looking back it was probably under pressure in the cold fridge for about a week before I'd give it a shot and I usually found it to be right on.

 

1 yes, just shut off gas momentarily and vent...then readjust regulator and turn back on. If in a hurry, I use 40/25/serving psi (which might be more than 8 depending on your temp).

2 depends...NEIPAs will be soft no matter...if using quick carb method, carb will still be better at 2 weeks usually.

3 Check thoroughly for leaks, designate 1 bottle for pressurizing/cleaning kegs and another for serving, have a spare bottle, always check regulator setting before: using beer gun/filling growlers, etc...check frig temp with ambient temp swings seasonally.

 

Don't forget the lube! Keg lube, that is. Lube up all your O-rings.

 

I know you want to hear a number that will give you a great pour, but it's not that simple. You must "balance" your keg system. Your variables are temperature (actual beer temp), desired volumes of CO2, pressure, and beer line length. Change any one of these and everything goes out the window.

Suggest you bookmark a carb carbonation chart and learn to to use it. Search Home Bar for lots of techniques on balancing . . . we talk about this until the cows come home in that Forum. Most new keggers expect to change a temp or pressure setting and see immediate results . . . realistically it takes days for these changes to take effect. I would budget at least a week to balance your new system. You didn't ask, but every new keg system will have gas/beer leaks of some form, I would do some serious testing before you have beer at risk. Also, I wouldn't leave the gas master valve on overnight until I'm positive it's solid . . . you can find more tips in Home Bar. You really don't want to be on first name basis with the guys at the Carbon Dioxide store.

Spare parts; if the system needs it to work you should have spares. When something goes wrong there is no one to call, never heard of a kegerator house call . . . instead it's toolbox time.

My last suggestion is to not tell your friends you'll be pouring draft beer in a week. There will be a lot less pressure (pun!) if you do the balancing act before advertising.

 

Another to consider when choosing your carbonation method with hop forward beers is whether you're ok with venting the aromatics you worked hard to get into the beer? I do the shake method and the 30-20-serving pressure method wot many beers but not with hoppy beers. Set it and forget it.

 

I always wondered about this allegation, never felt the need to test though, only purge as much as I need to. Sure, you are venting off aromatics each time you purge - you can obviosuly smell them - but the beer that is coming out the tap is also drawing from the bottom.

 

Teflon tape (pink) if you can find it and tighten using 2 wrenches...soap test...repeat

 

Just to add... teflon tape is good for seals that are made by the threads. Many aren't, and the answer in those cases is to use the proper O-Ring/Gasket/Washer, and of course to tighten adequately. For hose to barb connections, use a clamp or make sure the barb is bigger than the hose ID (and force the hose on by heating it first).

 

You should hear gas flowing through the regulator/hose/keg until the pressure equalizes. Leaks are often (maybe usually) not audible.

Spray all the connections with starsan solution. If there are leaks, you'll see bubbles continuously forming.

 

Yeah, what the Norseman said . . . there are dozens of threads on leaks in Home Bar. You might want to ask Mod to shift thread. After you've fixed all the leaks you want to apply pressure (40+) to an empty keg and shut the master valve off for overnight . . . see what it reads manaña.

 

https://www.beeradvocate.com/community/threads/foaming.193492/
https://www.beeradvocate.com/community/threads/help-with-balancing-my-system.248243/