Cincinnati

Waves of thirsty Europeans once made Cincinnati one of the country’s brewing capitals. And while the smokestacks have gone quiet, the thirsty hordes remain. Let’s see where they go to fix that little problem.

Cincinnati’s Over-the-Rhine neighborhood was a magnet for German immigration—a fact that also made it the historic center of Cincinnati’s brewing industry. (It was originally separated from the riverfront downtown by a canal and railroad. The first World War, which hastened the neighborhood’s Anglicization, suspended a bid to build a subway system atop the old canal’s footprint; the ditch is now the country’s largest abandoned subway tunnel.) At one point, there were dozens of breweries in the neighborhood, but any that weren’t destroyed by Prohibition fell victim to the waves of macro-lager consolidation that followed it. The carcasses of abandoned breweries and beer halls fill the neighborhood, and can be seen up-close on the Cincinnati Preservation Association’s twice-monthly Architreks tour. Additionally, the residence of one of Over-the-Rhine’s best-known beer barons, the Hauck House, now serves as a museum to 19th century wealth and power.

There is still good beer to be found in the neighborhood. The Boston Beer Company brews and bottles in the old Schoenling Brewery (around the corner from the historic Findlay Market), though the facility is not open to the public. BarrelHouse Brewing Company, perched on the neighborhood’s edge, brews both traditional German styles and aggressive, modern ales. And Grammer’s, a German landmark that’s been standing since 1872 but has been mothballed for the past decade and a half, is currently enjoying a nice rebirth. Its signature glass wall and entryway are as remarkable as ever, but the handcrafted American brews in its coolers represent a nice bit of progress.

Eden Park, a popular riverside retreat, lies on the far side of I-71. Its most checkered attraction: a statue of the Capitoline Wolf nursing Romulus and Remus. It’s a gift from Benito Mussolini.

Another landmark of German drinking culture, Mecklenburg Gardens, lies a short distance to the north—on the edge of the University of Cincinnati. Mecklenburg was founded in 1865, and hundred-year-old vines cover its historic biergarten. Those seeking good suds in less dignified surroundings should check out Fries Café—a truly great UC dive.

Northside isn’t convenient to much of anything, but that doesn’t mean that the dynamic, diverse neighborhood isn’t worth a trip. Especially because it’s home to the best bar in town, the Comet. They’ve got 200 beers—and burritos!

BarrelHouse Brewing Company [closed]
Founded as a brewpub, BarrelHouse made the jump to full-scale production microbrewery three years ago. Try their Dortmunder Lager, and their bruising Double Dark IPA.

Rock Bottom Restaurant & Brewery
This reliable brewpub chain’s location, within walking distance of the riverfront stadiums, makes it your best bet for pre- and post-game pints. The stouts never disappoint.

Hofbrauhaus Newport
200 East 3rd Street, Newport
Munich’s renowned beer hall has traded Bavaria for the banks of the Ohio. Sort of. On-site brewers replicate Hofbrau’s legendary recipes, which are served alongside spatzle and sausages. Had enough authenticity? Then try the burgers, wings or ribs.

Nicholson’s Tavern & Pub
Nicholson’s serves up beer, Scotch and tons of eye candy—assuming, that is, that dudes in kilts qualify as eye candy. And if not? There are still plenty of local brews and British Isles imports.

The Comet
A Northside institution that draws a devoted, eclectic crowd. The Comet pairs a constantly rotating selection of fine craft bottles with cheap PBR, local art, live indie and the city’s best jukebox.

Teller’s of Hyde Park
Not a prototypical beer bar. Instead, Teller’s sets the standard in town for treating beer as an integral part of the meal, rather than an afterthought to wine. Thirty handcrafted beers on tap, and another 50-plus in the bottle, complement an upscale menu nicely.

Mulligan’s Hyde Park Pub [closed]
Unrelenting din. Walls of flat-screen televisions. Men screaming over feats of athletic prowess. If such scenes are unavoidable, they’re best taken in at establishments with rows of worthy taps. Mulligan’s is just such an establishment.

Mecklenburg Gardens
Cincinnati’s oldest restaurant is steeped in the history of German immigration—and the thirst it inspired. Bavaria’s big brewhouses are well represented, and there’s no shortage of wurst and schnitzel. Just as it should be.

Allyn’s Cafe
Allyn’s stocks 110 bottles and serves the suds alongside Creole and Mexican dishes. Agoraphobics will delight in the adjacent retail shop, which sells Allyn’s complete selection of brews to go.

Dewey’s Pizza
This gourmet pizza chain pairs its pies with a thoughtful, ever-rotating selection of draft beers.

Fries Cafe
A beloved dive that welcomes all comers with dart boards, pool tables, a charming patio, a killer jukebox and a well-worn bar. Bonus: cheap beer that actually tastes good!

Kaldi’s Coffee House & Bookstore [closed]
Depending on the time of day, Kaldi’s is either a bar that doubles as a coffee shop/bookstore, or a coffee shop/bookstore with an unparalleled beer selection. Both incarnations warrant a visit.

Grammer’s [closed]
The hand-carved mahogany bar inside Grammer’s is well over 130 years old, but it’s rarely seen better days. Great local brews plus old German favorites equals a happy bar. And clientele, too, we suppose. ■