Qizai
Mordue Brewery

This ale -- a smoked rye saison -- is proof the Craft Revolution has arrived in Northumberland. Conceptually interesting and almost brilliantly made, I am awed. (Found at Generale, a boutique bottle shop at the Newcastle train station. Visit there.)

While its Looks are intriguing, it is hard to give high marks when the foam that doesn't stick around.
But Smells offer a prominent, yet subtle, smokiness (not much yeast making fruit, but one great feature is enough.)
Tastes are balanced: the malts are doing just fine by themselves; so have few hops. Sits in my mouth and I want another.
My saison test is: does it go with food? Afraid food might spoil this experience, I ate a handful of honey roasted cashews.

Qizai continues The Panda Project, Mordue's experimental line that cuts loose its Master Brewer to create; but is made practical by the Fawson Brothers who re-founded this brewery after a hiatus of a century. Qizai seems to be the latest in the Panda Project and if they never brew it again, I will still consider it my privilege to have had it.