(New) Homebrewer RANDOM question thread...

Yes. Well no, but it will stay viable longer if you do.

But this forum is in no danger of having a million threads. A new thread for each question works just fine.

 

"need to", probably not. Recommended, yes. From the Fermentis website for US-05:

"Storage
For less than 6 months: the product must be stored below 24°C75°F. For more than 6 months: the product must be stored below 15°C/59°F. For short periods not exceeding 7 days there is an exception to these rules.

"Shelf life:
36 months from production date. Refer to best before end date printed on the sachet. Opened sachets must be sealed and stored at 4°C (39°F) and used within 7 days of opening. Do not use soft or damaged sachets."

true dat!

 

On a related note I feel very comfortable ordering dry yeast online since they are more robust as regards temperature/storage during transport but I immediately place them in my refrigerator upon receiving the package.

In contrast, when I order liquid yeast (e.g., Wyeast, White Labs,...) I always order an ice pack to try and keep them cold during transport.

Cheers!

 

Too late to edit.......
I leave a small gasketed container in the fridge for the sole purpose or keeping dry yeast packs.

 

I use dry yeast for probably over 90% of my brews since I try to purchase ingredients just a couple of times a year and I'm always guaranteed a brew day. I keep them in the fridge and have had no problems, even with the packets that I forgot about for a year or so.

 

@MadMike740

Yeah, 1996 is a good guess, but...

If you want to post a pic inside a post that you make in a thread:
https://www.beeradvocate.com/commun...g-pictures-to-the-forums-and-database.664980/

If you want to post a pic on a Beer's page or a Place's page:
https://www.beeradvocate.com/community/threads/how-to-upload-beer-place-photos.628231/

And modernization of the process is said to be coming.

 

You're not alone. Phone? Like an iPhone? What's that?

One of the fixes Beer Advocate has been working on is uploading pictures.
In 2005 the fix was coming shortly. Same in 2010. Again, in 2015 it was issue that was going to be fixed. I think it was to be corrected by 2020.
I am sure it will be resolved by 2025. In the meantime there are a few threads on this subject. Numerous threads. But you're not alone, it is an endlessly frustrating experience.

Cheers

 

I doubt that Walmart spring water caused your extract kit beer to taste like butthole. But can you be more specific than "butthole?"

Since you're graduating to all-grain nonetheless... With 10 lbs of Maris Otter and distilled water, about 8 grams (total) of CaCl2 and/or CaSO4 would get your pH to a reasonable range. Maybe split 50/50 (4 g/4 g) if this is a SMaSH experiment with no particular goal in mind. Or use a couple ml of 88% Lactic Acid in place of half of the salts.

The steep would have been for "steeping grains," not for the extract (Liquid Malt Extract or Dry Malt Extract) per se. But I would agree that 170F is borderline too warm for steeping. 150-160 would be better. The higher the steeping temp, the greater the risk of extracting excess tannins from the grains, causing astringency. If the pH is high, this risk is elevated.

 

@MadMike740 have you done any reading for your new hobby of homebrewing? If not, permit me to recommend that you buy the book How to Brew by John Palmer and read it cover to cover prior to brewing another batch of beer.

Cheers!

 

The fact that the Star San got sucked into the wort tells me that the air space inside the fermenter contracted as the wort cooled down, thus the negative air pressure created suction. (Small amounts of Star San should not affect the taste.) The contraction of the air tells me that maybe the wort was not cool enough when you inserted the air lock which means that maybe you pitched the yeast when the wort was too warm. That can cause off flavors which may go away as the beer matures. 'Patience is a virture' is an old saying that definitely applies in this hobby, so in the future you should wait until the wort is between 65-70 degrees before pitching.

Enjoy the hobby.

 

^ I know what you mean, but for the benefit of future googlers, it would have been the wort that contracted, not the airspace (headspace). The pressure in the headspace dropped for two reasons: the temperature change (independent of volume) and the increase in headspace volume commensurate with the wort volume decrease.

 

An excellent resource for any home brewer. But the author doesn't specifically address the BIAB method in any detail.