Taproom Wings: 3 Pairings

Tria Taproom, an upscale beer bar in Philadelphia, takes an elevated approach to its Taproom Wings while maintaining the spice and meatiness you want in a plate of wings. They’re cured overnight in garlic powder, dried sage, cumin and salt, then, using the confit method, preserved in oil for a second night before being fried to order. Finally, the standard buffalo hot sauce is swapped for a green chile sauce made from tomatillos, jalapeño, Spanish onion, garlic, cumin, coriander and parsley. Owner Jonathan Myerow pairs the timeless bar dish with three classic beer styles.

Allagash White | 5.0% ABV
Allagash Brewing Co.
Wit is a great match for anything sweet, spicy and fried. Even though the beer itself is spiced with curaçao orange peel and coriander, the seasoning is subtle and can help temper a spicy dish. Cumin and coriander are also a classic pairing used in spice powders, mixtures and masalas around the world. Here the beer’s coriander accentuates the cumin in the rub on the wings.

Flower Power IPA | 7.5% ABV
Ithaca Beer Co.
In this American IPA, the fruitiness is more dominant than the bitterness, making it another ideal match for fried food and spice. The beer’s underlying bitterness cuts through the fat, while the citrusy hop notes complement the brightness of the green tomatillo sauce. Something like a German Pilsner would just be more about the bitterness, creating a sensory train wreck.

Left Hand Milk Stout | 6.0% ABV
Left Hand Brewing Co.
A Milk Stout poured on nitro turned out to be a shining star to pair. The beer’s mild residual sweetness and low hop presence complement the spicy sweetness of the sauce and the subtle spices in the wings themselves. Milk Stout is less roasty than many dark beers, and the nitro-derived creaminess makes it taste even less so. It’s a friendly and soothing counterpoint. ■