Reclaiming “Craft”

“Craft.” What the hell does it mean? We’ve been pondering its beery meaning for years now, and witnessing confusion among consumers on a daily basis. Why? No clear definition. Some suggest craft beer is like porn—“you know it when you see it”—but it’s often not that naked.

The Brewers Association—a guild of American-centric craft brewers—defines an American craft brewer as “small, independent and traditional,” mainly for statistical purposes and to protect the interests of their members. Cool, but what does “small, independent and traditional” mean? According to their website:

1) Small: Annual production of beer less than 2 million barrels. Beer production is attributed to a brewer according to the rules of alternating proprietorships. Flavored malt beverages are not considered beer for purposes of this definition.
2) Independent: Less than 25 percent of the craft brewery is owned or controlled (or equivalent economic interest) by an alcoholic beverage industry member who is not themselves a craft brewer.
3) Traditional: A brewer who has either an all malt flagship (the beer which represents the greatest volume among that brewers brands) or has at least 50 percent of its volume in either all malt beers or in beers which use adjuncts to enhance rather than lighten flavor.

That’s a lot to chew on. Many disagree with it, and eventually, some of its higher-profile members will grow out of it—Boston Beer Company being one example. Their website amends the Brewers Association’s definition by stating that even if they surpass 2 million barrels per year, they’re going to still consider themselves craft—kind of punk rock.

Then we have the Craft Brewers Alliance, comprised of Widmer Brothers Brewing, Redhook Ale Brewery, Kona Brewing Company and Goose Island Beer Company. None of them are considered craft brewers by the Brewers Association due to their involvements with A-B InBev—basically, they’re not independent—so they’ve banded together under their own banner of craft.

Michelob Brewing Company’s slogan (“Crafting a better beer”) markets the brand like a small craft brewery, and in a recent press release, they referred to their beers as “craft” beers. Michelob is actually an A-B InBev brand that’s been extended to cover their more experimental offerings.

Blue Moon Brewing Company is often viewed as an American craft beer. They use terms like “handcrafted” in their marketing and position themselves as a small craft brewer; however, few realize that the brand is actually owned by Molson Coors Brewing Company, brewed in mass in Canada, and exported and handled in the US by MillerCoors—a joint venture by SABMiller and Molson Coors.

Wait. Let’s not forget “Craft Beer. Done Lite.” The Miller Lite Brewers Collection (MLBC) was Miller Brewing Company’s attempt to hijack the term and introduce a lineup of faux-craft beers aimed at those looking for something a bit lighter than your average craft beer—epic fail.

And, to further the confusion, many now equate all “craft beer” with “good beer.” Definitely not true. But who doesn’t want to be associated with good beer, right? Right! Now it’s about inclusion, credibility and egos—tricky stuff.

So anyone can call themselves craft, appear to be craft, or actually be craft, and there’s no consensus on a definition or use. As a result of this hot mess, craft’s meaning is being blurred as small brewers get bigger and corporate brewers attempt to emulate.

It’s time for a real, black and white, never to be tweaked or compromised, definition. There needs to be a real difference, as there is a real difference, and it really matters. Craft needs to be reclaimed.

Respect Beer. ■