Thanksgiving Halfway Around the World
Photos by Sean Z. Paxton
Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday. In my family, we look at these four days as a food extravaganza where we share ideas about what gets us excited about food. We gather together in Bend, Ore., and spend quality time preparing the ingredients that later become a feast. Each year, I think about how to incorporate the family favorites that, without fail, need to make it to the table: the bird, the stuffing, the gravy, and the traditional side dishes. However, I also like to think about how those elements of taste can change with each year as I am inspired by a flavor combination or idea. This year, Morocco and East Asia have inspired me.
Moroccan Turkey Brine
The unique characteristics of an Imperial Red Ale mixed with the slight tang of pomegranate and a citrus twist of tangerine elevate this turkey to new heights.
Serves: 10–14 people
Beer Brine Ingredients:
1 gallon water, filtered, cold
1 1/2 cups kosher salt
3 each yellow onions, peeled and chopped
3 stalks celery, sliced
3 each carrots, peeled and sliced
3 each tangerines or oranges, quartered
6 each garlic cloves, peeled and sliced
6 each bay leaves
1 tsp. cinnamon, ground
1 tsp. coriander, ground
3/4 cup honey, local variety
1/4 cup pomegranate molasses*
66 oz. Ninkasi Believer Double Red Ale or other Imperial Red, ice cold
*Available at some ethnic grocery stores
Beer Brine Directions:
In a large stock pot, combine the cold water, salt, onions, celery, carrots, tangerines, garlic, bay leaves, cinnamon and coriander. Place over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Stir well until the salt has dissolved into the brine. Let the brine cook for 10 minutes to allow the flavors to fuse together. Turn off the heat, and add the honey and pomegranate molasses, stirring to blend thoroughly. Let the liquid cool to room temperature. Once cool, add the cold Believer or other Imperial Red Ale. Make sure the temperature is 40°F or below before using.
Remove the neck and innards of the turkey and wash well under cold water, rinsing the cavity and neck area, removing any quills or tags from the bird. Dry well with paper towels.
Use either a large 3- to 4-gallon container (such as a cleaned ice cooler) or large Ziploc bag, and add the turkey, then top off with the brine (for the ice cooler, add a few Ziploc bags full of ice). To further infuse the flavor, use a large syringe or injection needle and inject the brine into the breast, legs and thighs. Place in the refrigerator or ice cooler for 36–48 hours.
Turkey Ingredients:
1 each turkey, preferably free range, 18–22 pounds
1 each tangerine or orange, quartered
2 each cinnamon sticks
4 each carrots, peeled
4 stalks celery, washed and trimmed
1 each pomegranate, seeded, for garnish (optional)
Preparing the Bird:
Remove the turkey from the brine, and dry inside and out well with paper towels. This will help the browning of the skin, as moisture will steam instead of roast the turkey. Place the tangerine and cinnamon sticks inside the cavity of the bird, then truss the bird with twine to help hold its shape and to aid in cooking the turkey evenly. Lay the carrots and celery on the bottom of a roasting pan to replace a rack. Place the bird, breast-side up, in a roasting pan, centered on the carrots and celery. Let the bird sit at room temperature for 1-2 hours, letting its internal temperature rise. This will help the bird cook more evenly and require less oven time.
Cooking Instructions: Conventional Oven
Pre-heat the oven to 350°F. Place a temperature probe into the top center of the breast to make sure the turkey is cooked to a certain temperature (165°F) versus a length of time. If you don’t have a probe, an 18- to 22-pound turkey should take between three hours and 45 minutes and 4.5 hours to fully cook at this temperature. Check both the breast and the thigh temperature with an instant-read thermometer to make sure the turkey is evenly cooked.
Remove the turkey from the oven and cover with aluminum foil, and let it rest for 20–30 minutes before carving. This will help the turkey remain moist as the meat is allowed to relax after cooking, and to redistribute its juices. Slice the turkey and garnish with the pomegranate seeds.
Cooking Instructions: Smoker
Prepare a smoker or indirect heated barbecue with a small fire; keep the temperature at 250°F. Follow the above directions on preparing the turkey, then place into the smoker and cook until the internal temperature is 165°F. For wood chips, try apple, pecan or cherry-wood chips soaked for 30 minutes in Believer or other Imperial Red, adding a few cinnamon sticks. Add these beer soaked chips every 30 minutes to the fire while the turkey cooks. Also check the coals, making sure the smoking temperature stays pretty consistent.

Pistachio and Apricot Ale Couscous “Stuffing”
Stuffing is a must for Thanksgiving. This recipe plays up the theme of Morocco by introducing more flavors into the meal.
Serves: 10+ guests
Ingredients:
3 cups couscous
2 tbsp. olive oil
1 1/2 cup chicken stock, preferably homemade
1 1/2 cup Magic Hat #9 or other Apricot Ale
1 cup apricots, dried and chopped
2 tbsp. kosher salt
1 tbsp. coriander, ground
1 tbsp. cumin, ground
1 tsp. cinnamon, ground
1/2 tsp. turmeric powder
1/2 tsp. allspice, ground
1 bunch Italian leaf parsley, washed and chopped
1 cup pistachios, shelled and roasted
1 tsp. cracked pepper
1/4 cup orange juice, fresh squeezed
1 tbsp. olive oil
Directions:
In a large bowl, combine the couscous and olive oil. Using the palms of your hands, rub the olive oil into the couscous until all the grains are lightly coated. This will prevent clumps and make a fluffier couscous. In a large pot, add the chicken stock and beer, dried apricots, salt, coriander, cumin, cinnamon, turmeric, and allspice, and bring to a boil. Simmer for two minutes, then whisk in the couscous until combined. Turn off the heat and cover with a tight-fitting lid and let sit for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, add the parsley, pistachios, pepper, orange juice and oil, mixing together.
Remove the lid of the pan holding the couscous. The liquid should be absorbed by the grains. Using a fork, scrape and fluff into individual grains. Add to a large bowl and toss in the pistachio orange mixture; serve warm or at room temperature.
Three Philosophers Cranberry Sauce
The addition of a Quadrupel to a tart cranberry sauce adds an undertone of malty goodness to this quintessential Thanksgiving side dish.
Makes: 3 cups
Ingredients:
12 oz. cranberries, preferably fresh
750 mL Brewery Ommegang Three Philosophers or other Belgian-style Quadrupel
1 cup cherries, dried
1 cup honey, local variety
1 tsp. kosher salt
2 each cinnamon sticks
2 each tangerines or oranges, sliced into rings, seeds removed
Directions:
In a large pot over medium heat, add the cleaned and picked-over cranberries, Quadruple Ale, dried cherries, honey, salt, cinnamon sticks and citrus (either in rings or juiced). Stir well, until the mixture comes to a simmer. Turn down the heat to low and let the cranberries pop for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Transfer to a serving bowl, and the sauce is ready to use.
Asian-Inspired Turkey Brine
The delicate flavors of lemongrass, lime leaves, ginger, and honey, blended with a Belgian-style Golden Strong Ale, make for a delicious brine recipe.
Makes: enough brine for one 18- to 22-pound turkey, four 3-pound chickens, or eight Cornish game hens
Ingredients:
1 gallon water, filtered, cold
1/2 cup kosher salt
1/2 cup miso, white barley variety
2 each onions, yellow, peeled and sliced
5 each lemongrass stalks*, sliced in half, then in thin half-rings
3 each kaffir lime leaves*, if available
1/3 lb. ginger, peeled and sliced
1 tbsp. white peppercorns, cracked
1/4 cup soy sauce
3/4 cup honey, local variety
3 bottle Russian River Damnation or another Belgian Strong Golden Ale (750mL), cold
1/2 cup yuzu juice* or a mix of lime, lemon, and tangerine juices
Brine Directions:
In a large stock pot, combine the cold water, salt, miso, onions, lemongrass, kaffir leaves, ginger, white pepper and soy sauce. Place over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Stir well until the salt has dissolved into the brine. Let the brine cook for 10 minutes to fuse all the flavors together, like a tea. Turn off the heat and add the honey, stirring to blend thoroughly. Let the liquid cool to room temperature. Once cool, add the cold Damnation or another Strong Golden Ale and yuzu or citrus juice cocktail, and mix well. Check that the temperature is 40˚F or below before using. Follow the oven cooking instructions above.
Tripel Orange Enoki Mushroom Sauce
This is not your traditional gravy, but what it adds to the Asian-brined turkey is unreal.
Makes: about 2 cups
Ingredients:
375 mL Chimay White or other Tripel
1/4 cup orange juice, preferably fresh squeezed
1 tbsp. orange zest
1 cup chicken or turkey stock
1 tsp. soy sauce
3 tbsp. corn starch
3 tbsp. water
white pepper to taste
Directions:
In a medium pot, combine the Tripel, orange juice and zest, stock, and soy sauce. Place over medium heat and bring to a light simmer. Meanwhile, add the corn starch and water to a half-pint glass and mix into a milky slurry. When the ale/stock mixture comes to a simmer, slowly pour a little of the corn starch slurry into the pot and mix with a whisk. Let the liquid come back to a simmer, as it will thicken and tighten up the sauce. Be patient, this will take a few additions to get the sauce to be the right consistency. The thickened sauce should be of a gravy consistency, not too thick or too thin and runny. Season with the white pepper and add the enoki mushrooms right before serving the sauce with the Asian-brined turkey.
Chinese-Style Rice “Stuffing”
This sticky rice flavored with Chinese-style sausages is a perfect side dish, but can also be used as the center of an Asian-inspired meal.
Serves: 8-–2 guests, depending on the number of side dishes
Ingredients:
1/4 cup peanut or vegetable oil
8 each Chinese-style sausages*, preferably with turkey and duck livers added
2 each onions, yellow, peeled and chopped
8 each garlic cloves, peeled and sliced
2 tbsp. ginger, grated fine
3 oz. shiitake mushrooms, dried and sliced
2 tbsp. miso, white barley variety
1 tbsp. soy sauce
1 tbsp. orange peel, dried
4 cup sushi rice, not washed
2 cup chicken or turkey stock
2 cup Tripel or Saison
1 1/2 cup water
Directions:
In a large pot or Dutch oven placed over medium-high heat, add the oil and the sausages that have been sliced thin. Sauté the sausages until they turn lightly crispy around the edges and the fat renders out, about 6 minutes. Remove the sausage and place into a bowl. Next, add the onions and cook for 8-10 minutes; they’ll become transparent and have a very light golden-brown color. Add the garlic and ginger and sauté for 1 minute. Add the shiitakes, miso, soy sauce, orange peel and sushi rice and stir to evenly coat the rice grains. Add the stock, ale and water, and bring to a simmer.
Turn the heat to very low and cover the pan with a lid. Let cook for 20-25 minutes until all the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender. The finished rice will be sticky; however, it will also have a fried-rice-like undertone to it. Serve immediately.
* Available at an Asian market or in some specialty food sections. ■
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