Bologna, Italy

A city famous for its red roofs, delicious food and those iconic two towers, Asinelli and Garisenda, Bologna is a college town of about 380,000.

The University of Bologna and its more than 90,000 students give the capital of Emilia-Romagna a youthful vibe, but as with all Italian cities, it is steeped in Old World tradition—and that means food. A walk down any street in the historic city center will lead you to a traditional Bolognese restaurant. You’ll find dishes like tagliatelle al ragu (Bolognese meat sauce), lasagna, tortellini in broth, and an array of plates filled with different types of pork.

Though for a city (and a region) with such a rich culinary tradition, it’s a shame that there are no traditional beer styles to pair with these mouth-watering meals. This is wine country, after all. All it takes is a quick ride through the farmlands outside of the city to remind you—grapes are everywhere.

But times are changing. The situation for beer lovers isn’t nearly as bleak as it once was. The Italian beer industry has been growing over the last decade, with things really picking up over the past five years. Some people are even beginning to put down their wine glass in favor of a pint.

Because the beer culture is still so young, finding quality local beer can be a real hassle if you don’t know where to look. Yet hidden behind the scenes, in between all the wine bars, osterias and pizzerias, there are some great spots to sit down and have a pint. And if you make your way west of the city, near Modena, you’ll find a handful of breweries mixed in seamlessly with the farmers and their vineyards. So here it is, a list to steer you in the right direction if you find yourself wandering around Bologna, itching for some local craft.

StataleNove
Located just a few miles west of the Old City walls, this brewery’s tasting room is open for visitors Tuesday through Saturday, mornings and afternoons, and also Monday afternoons. Generally about 10 different bottled beers and four on tap.

Birrificio Emiliano
This brewery opened its doors less than two years ago, and a mere mile away from StataleNove. Emiliano produces 1,000-liter batches of many styles, including a Kölsch, a Bitter and a Stout. There’s no tasting room, but the brewery’s open on Saturdays for visitors. Just remember to call ahead, or there might not be anyone home.

Vecchia Orsa
A tiny brewery that often makes two 150-liter batches a day. Standouts are the refreshing Saison made with green pepper, and the 8 percent ABV chocolaty Russian Imperial Stout.

White Dog Brewery
A 45-minute drive west, this brewery / bed & breakfast is nestled in the scenic hills, and on the private residence of brewer Steve Dawson and his wife, Kelly. They welcome customers any time, as long as you let them know you’re coming. White Dog serves up mostly British styles—highlights are the dark ales. Be sure to ask about their hop plants and barley production.

Birrificio Dada
In operation for just 12 months, you’ll have to drive west for 50 minutes to pick up a growler (“fiaschetto”) of Dada’s ale. Don’t expect American-style bitterness, but rest assured, hopheads: You will get your hop fix. Open Monday through Saturday, mornings and afternoons.

Birra Zimella
Craft brewery, barley producer and hop farm, Zimella sells beer as well as the ingredients to make it. The beer lineup consists of an ale that’s reminiscent of a Kölsch, an Amber and a Stout. Open to visitors Monday through Saturday, 4:30 p.m. – 7:30 p.m.

La Tana del Luppolo
Open since 1998, the Tana is technically a bottle shop, not a beer bar. You can, however, take a seat at this hole in the wall and sample any of the hundreds of beers that line the shelves, from floor to ceiling. Great selection of everything Belgian, German and British, with a good rotating selection of more local brews.

Birreria del Pratello
Via del Pratello, 24/a, Bologna
This dimly lit bar isn’t an ideal place for a quiet night, and may suit you best after you’ve already had a few. But don’t let the less than tidy appearance fool you—they’ve got a nice selection.

Eataly – L’Osteria del Vino e Della Birra
Via Degli Orefici, 19, Bologna
bologna.eataly.it
The top floor is where you’ll find the beer. The first half of the restaurant is filled with beer, the second half with wine. Good selection of ales from some larger Italian craft breweries such as Le Baladin and Birra del Borgo, and smaller ones like Panil. Stop by Wednesday nights when each dish is paired with a beer; no wine allowed.

L’Ortica
Via Mascarella, 26, Bologna
Easily the best place in Bologna to get local craft on tap. Beers available are almost exclusively Italian, and generally from Emilia-Romagna. The seven tap lines, including two casks, are always rotating, with a few non-local treats occasionally mixed in. Usual suspects are Vecchia Orsa, White Dog, Zimella, StataleNove and Bad Attitude.

Birreria Amadeus
This sports bar is probably the only place in town where you can sit down with a good beer and watch the local soccer game. Six beers on tap, and a bottle list that goes on for pages.

Mercato della Terra
Via Azzo Gardino, 65, Bologna
mercatidellaterra.it/network/bologna
Every Saturday morning from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m., right in front of the Cinema Lumiere, there is the Mercato della Terra, a bustling farmers market. Expect to find a stand for either White Dog, Vecchia Orsa or Zimella, if not two or three of them.

Re di Pizza
A little outside of Bologna, but worth the trip. Here, you’ll find a collection of some of Italy’s finest craft beers from all over the country, some great pizza and the occasional four-course beer dinner. Don’t bother with their website’s beer list—it barely scratches the surface. ■