Summer Smoke-Out

September’s a great time to fire up the grill. Breezy nights and mild sun make it a less sweat-drenched task. With all the beloved flavors of barbecuing abound, it’s a good time also to get better acquainted with Rauchbier: beer brewed with smoked malt.

Smoked beer has deep roots in the German brewing tradition. Before the 18th century, malt was dried in the sun or on an open flame. You can imagine how often full, strong sun was not available, so brewers would resort to the wood-fired method, which produces the smoky flavor of the Rauchbier.

When kiln-drying wet malt (a method that keeps out smoke) became overwhelmingly preferred in the brewing world, smoked malt was nearly “smoked out.” But two breweries in Germany—Schlenkerla and Spezial—carry on the tradition, brewing with malt smoked over beechwood logs year-round. And more and more craft breweries in America have been revisiting the tradition, producing their own styles of smoked beers in recent years. Naturally, they’re a great pairing for your favorite smoked meats. So here are three party ideas to throw for your friend, Smokey the Beer. Remember, only you can prevent bad barbecues!

Smoked Brisket Bash
The great thing about smoking meats slowly over low heat is that it renders less favorable cuts into divine delicacies. You can feed a lot of people with a big hunk o’ brisket, making it perfect for parties. I like serving this specialty with an assortment of refreshing, homemade pickles, and maybe a pan of beer-baked beans. If you like having sauce with the meat, make your own barbecue or hot sauce—add a good pour of Stout to the sauce for extra depth.

Pairing Suggestions: Rogue Smoke Ale, Dark Horse Fore Smoked Stout, New Glarus Unplugged Smoked Rye Ale

Smoky Jerk Chicken Grill-Out
In my neck of the woods (Brooklyn), Labor Day means a serious ceremony of West Indies pride—a parade and three full days of partying, it seems. It’s hard to not get into the spirit and eat something jerk-spiced as a result. After marinating in a sauce with ginger, garlic, brown sugar and Scotch bonnet peppers, jerk chicken is traditionally slow-cooked in cut steel drums—but you can easily replicate the same effect in your gas or charcoal barbecue. Just be sure to add wood to the ’cue for an authentic, smoky flavor.

Pairing suggestions: Sixpoint Signal Ale, Hitachino Nest Real Ginger Ale, Red Stripe Lager

Chipotle Pulled Pork Sammies & Beer Mustard Slawfest
Don’t have a smoker of your own? You can still enjoy that signature flavor of summer with chipotles, or smoked jalapeño peppers. Cook a big pile of pulled pork indoors while you free up the grill for other treats. Just drench pork shoulder in a chipotle-based braise and cook it in a low-heat oven for a few hours. Pull it apart and let it soak up its juices, and try making rolls to serve it in, incorporating spent grain if you’re a homebrewer. Grainy beer mustard makes a tasty addition to fresh slaw, for another punch of flavor.

Pairing suggestions: Stone Smoked Porter with Chipotle, Rogue Chipotle Ale, Alaskan Brewing Co. Smoked Porter

Smoked Beer Trivia
• Moku Moku brewery in Japan produces smoked beer as well as smoked ham and sausages.
• Schlenkerla brews several smoky beers (like an Urbock, a Weissbier and a Helles-style Blonde), but their Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier is widely considered the epitome of the Rauchbier style, with “aecht” meaning “genuine.”
• In 2008, San Juan Brewing Co. in Washington served a bacon-brewed beer. Since then, Brooklyn Brewery, Three Skulls and Rogue have each brewed a bacon-infused smoked beer. ■