Brussels

Take Washington DC. Make it 1,100 years old. Go ahead and throw in two native languages and countless architectural styles. But before you go and sprinkle on a couple dozen nations’ bureaucrats on top, let it serve as a continent’s trading and cultural crossroads for a few centuries.

Oh, and there are magical strains of bacteria and yeast floating around in the air—stuff that spontaneously turns wort into gold. Dry, fruity, sour gold. That’s the magic of Brussels.

As Belgium’s capital region, the Brussels area is awash in the nation’s unique beer styles, from the Oud Bruins of Flanders to the bounties of Belgium’s far-flung abbeys. Many of Brussels’ back-alley pubs (those ancient ones that are concentrated within the “small ring,” inside the footprint of the old city walls, almost invariably lie not on the main boulevards, but tucked far behind them) and beer halls stock an impressive representation of the country’s best products. Still, Brussels natives remain partial to Lambics, the spontaneously fermented ales that sprung from the farmland lining of the nearby Senne River valley.

A few breweries continue to churn out notable styles of Lambics. Lindemans, with its refreshing fruit and Faro (Lambic sweetened with candi sugar, and often spiced), you know. Oud Beersel and Drie Fonteinen, both in the medieval town of Beersel, you should seek out; both brew spectacular versions of Gueuze, a refreshing blend of new and old Lambic. Inside the city proper, there’s Cantillon, a century-old brewery that’s fiercely loyal to Belgium’s traditional brewing methods—with wonderful results.

Those breweries lie a quick drive outside town, but you’ll need a car to access them. The same goes for Affligem, the storied abbey brewery. Luckily for those without transportation, the city center is dense and well served by public transportation. And packed with classic places to enjoy the fruits of the area’s wild microorganisms. Don’t miss Poechenellekelder (the puppet cellar), an old-school cave sitting in Parliament’s shadow; A La Mort Subite, a turn-of-the-century beer hall sandwiched between the city’s Gothic cathedral and the national opera; and La Bécasse, a comfy pub serving up massive pitchers of Lambic in an alley near the city’s stately central marketplace.

Restobieres
Williamsburg gone to Brussels? Perhaps. Hip neighborhood, with antique bottles and coffee cans lining the walls, while a stellar selection of bottles from across the country really make the traditional menu stand up.

Brouwerij Lindemans
The big boy on the block is headquartered a half hour’s drive outside town. Lindemans is the globe’s best-known Lambic brewer, and the company’s modern brewery sits next door to the farm where it all started, 200 years ago.

Brasserie Cantillon
This 109-year-old institution makes Gueuze, Faro and Kriek Lambics the same way the brewery’s founders did. It’s traditional, spontaneous and incomparable.

Brouwerij Drie Fonteinen
A small family affair, Fonteinen brews beer and blends Gueuze out back, and serves hearty, traditional Belgian fare up front. The best is the stuff (stews and mussels) that marries the two.

Brouwerij Oud Beersel
The 127-year-old Oud Beersel brewery nearly didn’t make it, but a few years ago, beer lovers rallied to bring the then-shuttered place back to life. Today, they make Gueuze and Kriek in the old style, as well as a tasty, modern Tripel.

A La Mort Subite
Four generations have called this warm beer hall home. Sparkling Faro and Kriek keeps the masses loyal, and well hydrated.

Brasseurs de la Grand Place [closed]
As the name suggests, this is a brewery sitting right on top of the historic old market. The modern brewpub doesn’t serve Belgium’s best beer, but the Tripel is quite decent, and the location is among the world’s finest.

Affligem
The Benedictine Affligem abbey traces its history back 1,000 years. And, as we all know, monks get thirsty. Today, the brewery making the monks’ beer—a solid Dubbel and Tripel, and a sublime Blonde—is owned by Heineken.

Brouwerij Timmermans
A historic Lambic brewery now owned and operated by the John Martin Corporation, Timmermans brews a variety of traditional Lambics and Gueuzes. Seek out the Lambicus Blanche, an intriguing Wit Lambic.

Bier Circus
A bright, modern dining room here, with solid cuisine à la bière. Nothing wild—until the mammoth beer menu comes into play. It’s got tons of Lambics, as well as Trappists, Flemish Reds and other sought-after styles well worth seeking out.

Poechenellekelder
Locals and slightly pervy tourists alike flock to this bustling little bar, which serves up more than 150 beers within, uh, spitting distance of the Mannekin Pis.

Beer Mania
Four hundred bottles available to go, but what’s the rush? Pop a few open in the café, and savor your pilgrimage. Don’t miss Mea Culpa, the house Belgian Pale.

In’t Spinnekopke
Foie gras, Rochefort scallops, fine beer and the atmosphere to match, all at a safe distance from ravenous, touristy hordes.

La Bécasse
A bit of an anomaly here—La Bécasse is just a block from the Grand Place, but the copper-filled bar is refreshingly quiet. All the better to enjoy your clay jugs of Lambic.

Toone
Come for the atmosphere—three gorgeous brick-and-beam rooms, a roaring fireplace and puppet shows. Puppet shows and beer! What’s not to love?

L’Imaige de Nostre-Dame
A charmingly tiny spot tucked in an alley behind the stock exchange and Saint Nicholas Church. Pull up an ancient stool, and stay awhile.

L’Ultime Atome
Travelers rave about this modern, often jam-packed hotspot in Ixelles. Great food, great beer and some truly great times.

Delirium Café
The Delirium Café is loud, smoky, often packed with drunks and, despite it all, out of this world. Perhaps that’s because the beer list is 4 inches thick. Perhaps. ■